Models > MLG19PDDWW

MLG19PDDWW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo

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This OEM drum support roller kit contains the parts needed to replace one roller on your dryer. This kit includes one drum roller and two bearings. Most dryers use two drum rollers, and it is recommen...
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This OEM kit comes with two ignition coils (one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two-terminal secondary coil). Usually only one of them burns out, but you should replace them as a set as both h...
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This part is located on the front bulkhead of the dryer and helps the drum to rotate smoothly and quietly. If you notice a screeching or metal-on-metal noise while your appliance is operating, you may...
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The roller shaft is also known as a support roller shaft or a drum roller axle. It is a part in your dryer that the drum rollers spin on, helping your dryer to tumble. If your appliance is noisy while...
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If your dryer is noisy while operating, or will not tumble at all, there may be an issue with the drum belt. Over time, the rubber can become brittle and snap, and the belt will need to be replaced. T...
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Sometimes referred to as a retaining clip, the retaining ring is used to hold the drum support roller onto the shaft in your dryer. The clip may need to be replaced if you find that your dryer is nois...
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If your dryer is making excessive noise, or it will not tumble, there may be an issue with the idler pulley wheel. The idler pulley wheel is attached to the idler bracket and is used to secure the dry...
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This genuine OEM part is a radiant flame sensor for your gas dryer. It is used to determine when the temperature of the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. Once the igniter is hot enough, it allo...
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This roller shaft washer is just under an inch in diameter and is used for some of Whirlpool's brands of clothes dryers.Sold individually.
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This idler pulley shaft washer is used with many clothes dryers. It is less than an inch long, and it is black in color.
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This seal can be used for the front or rear drum. Adhesive is NOT included. For adhesive search: WPY055980
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$13.24
Sold individually.
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Common Problems and Symptoms for MLG19PDDWW

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Noisy
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Leaking
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Door won’t close
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Marks left on clothes
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Will not drain
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Not Heating
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Burning smell
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Too hot
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Spins slowly
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Drum Not Spinning
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Will not agitate
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Will Not Start
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Won’t Start
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Customer:
gerry from west covina,, CA
Parts Used:
306436, 12001541
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
noisy rollers, broken latch
first, I unplug the power supply of the dryer then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the dryer then pulled out the front part of the dryer,unplugged the blue & yellow wire for the on/off switch for the door,at the back of the dryer I unscrew the pannel for the belt,disconect the belt,and I unscrew the four screws on both side of t he front pannel to remove the front cover of the drum. Once I removed the front cover of the drum I can now remove the drum itself to access the drum support roller. I unscrew the rollers then replace it with the new once. It was an easy job.
Thank you.
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Customer:
Gary from Haverhill, NH
Parts Used:
279834
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer ran but would not heat
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
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Customer:
Richard from Greenville, NH
Parts Used:
12002022
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Spinner making loud whining noise.
As Typical with this Neptune front load washer, the Water Seal fails to keep water from getting into the bearings. The bearings start to sound like a jet engine at high speed spins once the grease is washed out (nice grease splatter at the back of the cabinet). You can replace the Lip Seal but the bearings are not part of the kit. It i s a waste of time to replace the seal kit if the bearings are already bad or going bad. You can't buy the bearings from here or any other appliance part store. You have to purchase a new tub in order to get new bearings, at $500+. Not worth it. I purchased the Lip Seal Kit with the intention of removing the bearings and replacing. The instructions that come with the kit explain with diagrams how to disassemble. In order to remove the spinner from the outer tub, I had to remove the whole tub, place it face down on some 2x4's and hit the spinner shaft with a hammer and block of wood to get it out of the old bearings. It came out fairly quickly. I removed the old lip seal (you can use the two access holes at the back of the outer tub to bang out the lip seal with a nail) and using a hammer and screwdriver, banged out the front bearing in the outer tub from the back and through the back bearing. This took a little while of moving around the bearing edge and tapping out, especially since there is a pipe spacer between the 2 bearings. It can be moved partly out of the way. The spacer will fall out with the front bearing. I then removed the C-clip that holds in the back bearing and banged out using the same method as the front bearing but from the inside. It too took a lot of tapping around the edges due to lots of corrosion. Once I had the bearings out, I looked up the make and model printed on the covers. Order using a DDU designation which is a rubber seal on both sides, like originals. I cleaned up the bearing mounting surfaces using a dremel tool and wire brush attachment. Make sure you get the metal free of any contamination. Use grit paper if necessary. I also sanded down the spinner shaft and got the spindle nice and shiny. I inserted the larger front bearing first (use a little grease on outside edge), it was a very tight fit and had to tap in using a hammer and metal rod. Make sure it is all the way in. Install the new seal kit (mine was the crummy original design, not the revised one). With the spinner tub on the floor shaft up on some 2x4's (light coating of grease on shaft), place the outer tub over the spinner with the shaft inserting through the new bearing and out the back. The shaft isn't an interference fit with the front bearing so it should slide in easily. WIth the shaft fully inserted, install the pipe spacer (cleaned up) then place the back bearing (outside edge greased) over the shaft and into the outer tub. This is an interference fit and will have to be tapped into place. It also was a tight fit into the tub. WIth it part of the way into the tub, I installed the belt pulley and tightened it down using a longer bolt than supplied, and this pushed the bearing the rest of the way in. I then installed the the C-ring. Not sure why the C-ring is needed with the bearing being such a tight fit. I installed the tub assembly back into the washing machine cabinet and installed the pulley and belt.. After reassembling the complete washer (after much cleaning of dust and soap scum, etc) I ran the unit once with no clothes to make sure any contaminates (grease, etc) where washed out first. So far so good, nice and quiet. If it last me another 5-10 years I will be happy. It will fail again for the same reason since I had to use the same lame seal kit and didn't have the revised version un
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