2661532413 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Purchased spanner wrench for tub nut wouldn’t budge, impacted off. Then spin tub took 2days to get loose, lots of WD40 , also heated up center area, used a small sledgehammer head to hit a socket on the large part of the shaft . Had to take out outer tub to replace seal and support bearing unit.

If you're handy with a right angle grinder and a cutoff wheel, it can be done.

Order the washer hub, hub nut, and the spring washer above the hub nut.

Get the agitator out. a pair of flat bars and some hammering on the agitator retaining bolt helps a lot. Loosen the retaining nut a few turns, pry and hammer at the same time, repeat until he agitator comes out.

On the bottom of the tub assembly is a brown plastic bracket that holds the spin solenoid. Remove it before you dismount the tub assembly. It's easy to break, and it costs $65.

Dismount the tub assembly from the cabinet. Turn it over and remove the motor. Unbolt everything that can be unbolted. Cut away enough of the large metal plate that was bolted to the bottom of the tub so that the tub assembly will stand upright on a five gallon bucket.

Stand the tub assembly upright on the five gallon bucket. Cut away the hub nut. Try not to cut into the black steel disk on the bottom of the tub. Soak the metal parts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar. Slip a three foot long piece of 1 1/4 pipe or conduit over the stem that held the agitator. Hold the pipe upright. Drop a four foot long steel rod into the pipe. Use the steel rod as a slide hammer and whale away. Stop frequently to spray your penetrant, and keep hammering. Eventually you'll drive the old washer hub out of the drum. Remember, everything is plastic and not indestructible..

Before reassembly turn the tub over and clean up the mating surfaces, ditto the agitator. When reassembling use antisieze compound on the mating surfaces.

I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.

1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.
2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.
3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.
4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.
5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.
6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.
7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.

Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.
8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Removed any broken pieces from old handle and popped in new handle.

I removed the washer front cover and slanted cover between washer and drier to see where the noise was coming from. I found 2 rubber stabilizing straps broken away from the tub cap and popped off the snap on tub cap to see if I could repair it. I could not, so, I ordered a new tub drip cap thinking that would solve the problem. Well, the new cap was not identical to the one I took out. The pegs that the straps are supposed to connect to were nonexistent ... frustrating. After reading several help files, I discovered that GE had changed the design of the drip cap intentionally and had done away with the stabilizing straps. There was no mention of the design change in the instructions that came with the new part. Okay, now the real fun began...LOL. Removing those darned tub hangers was a challenge because I was working alone and in a very confined area. The instructions said to remove the 2 front hangers and let the tub sit on the floor. I did not like doing that for fear of damaging other parts under the tub. Additionally, I could not reach the rear hangers if I did it the recommended way. So, I used some oak boards and straps to lift (jack up) the tub as high as possible and to remove the weight off of the tub hangers. With the weight removed from the hangers, they snapped out of place...not easily. The 2 rear hangers are hard to reach and the plastic hanger caps were difficult to unsnap. I had to slam the plastic caps against the frame to get them unsnapped from the metal rods. The instructions did not contain any description of how the hangers are connected or how to get them removed. Anyway, I put it all back together and tested it. Everything is working fine now...minus the stabilizing straps. It would be very easy to injure yourself doing this job. Take your time and consider the consequences before jumping into this alone or with improper lifting equipment or mechanical skills. It was tedious and frustrating but not impossible. Good luck!

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

I researched what could be the problem in the internet and follow the instructions from a GE technician, I chose the problem from a list and followed the video the technician played on how to do it yourself. This time was the lid switch which is found visible under the lid opening usually right middle flush with the opening. When I got the new lid, only the switch gets bad so I cut the cable enough to replace the old one, pulled out and cut and connected the new one. If there is not enough cable use the spatula to push the clips on the front panel on the top both side about 5 inches from the corner and pull panel out front and now you can see the wires better and make the connection.

I followed the video from the website to install the lid switch. Worked like a charm. Great instructions. You do need to supply your own butt splice connectors .

Took off the front panel of the washer which exposed electrical wires going to top lid sensor. Took out old sensor installed new. Cut wires from old sensor and spliced wires from new sensor to machines wires that went to old sensor. Replaced front of washer. Washer works fine now.

If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.

TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.

IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.

Step 1: Remove the control panel

To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.

Step 2: Remove the lid

There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.

Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses

Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)

Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to

There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.

Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)

There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.

Step 5: Replace the slides

The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.

Step 6: Putting it all back together

Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.

It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.

Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.