11081432510 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

It was so easy, that my wife did it the day we got the part before I got home from work. She wedged it out with a flat head screw driver and then pushed the new door catch assembly in with her thumb. Pretty simple, thanks for having parts like this available to the public!

The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.

Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer.
I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls.
Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

went by the instution in the box with the part went very well thanks

I removed the screws holding the control unit down, removed a couple at the rear,
Disconnected the electrical clip that plugs into the top, under the control unit.
This allows enough slack to pivot it ( the control unit) upside down and get it out of the way enough to remove the spring clips that hold the top to the back.
Popped out the two clips that hold the back to the top.
Pulled the back out, up until the plastic soap dispenser , (which is attached to the back) hits under the lip of the top.
This does not allow enough room to get to the valves.
I finally figured out you have to lift the entire top up high enough to clear the back while pulling it ( the back) out.
Disconnected the hose clamp, electric connectors, installed the new valves into the supplied mounting plate replaced the valves .
Re -connected the hose and electric connectors and re assembled the back.
The only problem I had was when one of the spring retainers that hold the back to the top popped off and fell inside the unit, which forced me to remove everything including the back bottom screws, which caused the sides to pop off, the mounting ears , which are attached to the back,
Took some finesse but finally retrieved the spring clamp and finished everything back together.
It was a bit tricky keeping the plastic gaskets between the back and the sides from falling inside as I reassembled it.
But all is well, and would have been more difficult without the expierence written by others who posted, on the site.
Thank you to all, for the help.
I hope my efforts will help someone else.

This dryer is a stackable washer/dryer. I removed all the buttons on the front panel along with the panel. I then was able to lift the front of the door and reach in to the door switch and plug. I unscrewed the old part, installed the new one. I then put the front panel and face plate back into position and screwed them back to the dryer casing. Lastly I put the knobs back on. I was extremely impressed at how easy it was to order and how quick the part came to my house. I am very satisfied with the service and the price and will use this site again in the future.

First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to glue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!

took off two screws that held the top part on took the screws that held the back on 4 screws removed the one screw that held the replacement valve put the black mounting plate on the machine replaced screws very simple.

First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt. Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.

PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.

Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs and moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.

we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.