11088732796 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed top control panel, removed inlet mount hardware, removed both electrical connectors, removed filler hose, Installed new inlet valve in reverse order. Works fine !

I followed the video instructions to the tee. Took more time to move the machine out and put back than to replace the inlet valve.

The repair went smoothly once I found detailed instructions including pictures on the web. The inlet valve is mounted on the back panel of the machine. To get access to the valve you need to remove the front/side cabinet. This was done by removing the two plastic moldings on the ends of the control panel, swing the control panel back, removing two screws, then tilting the front/side cabinet forward. The inlet valve was held in place by one screw and attached to the washer with a hose clamp. Reverse the process and the job was done.

Just took screws on top panel holding the gauges pop the spring like braces holding the body of machine to back panel removed water valve one screw unhooked wireing than replaced new valve in reverse order.

The repair went great. The video shown on the partselect site saved me a huge amount of time disassembling the cabinet to access the malfunctioning part. The most difficult part of the repair was replacing the cabinet on the unit after the part swap and getting it straight. Luckily 2 attempts was enough. I recommend trying this repair yourself and saving a bunch of $$.

Your video was helpful. I just followed the directions, replaced the valve, put it back together and celebrated spending $28 instead of the $100 deductible on my home warranty. If you're sure of the part you need, just do it.

I followed the instructions I found on your website. It made it very easy. Easier than if I had tried to do it the way I thought I had to remove the back of the washer. Going through the top panel made removing the bottom panel screws unnecessary.
The experts were correct, the instructions precise. Thank you

The hot water hose was frozen to the hot water bibb and it took me a while to cut it loose with my Dremel tool. Removed the cabinet and replaced the water inlet valve easily, then hooked up new hot and cold water hoses. Reinstalling the cabinet was a little tricky getting it lined up correctly. Checked for leaks then tested the washing machine and it ran great with the water filling the machine much faster with the new Water Inlet Valve. I will definitely replace the washing machine hot and cold water hoses every 5 years from now on.

It is sometimes tricky to figure out which screws and panels to remove to get to the parts you want to fix. Older Whirlpools used to have a lift up top that would allow access. This one required the back to come off (or at least partially off).

First, pull out the washer for access. Turn off water to the machine, and unplug the electrical cord. Remove the drain hose using a large pliers to pinch the clamp and then pull the hose off. Remove water lines at the back of washer, again with a large pliers (if needed). Remove two screws at the bottom of back panel. Remove two screws at the top corners of back panel that hold some sort of plastic hinge piece to the control housing. Remove two screws on either end of the bottom front of the control housing on top of the machine. The back can now be lifted free (with some effort) from the sheet metal tabs that hold the bottom of the back in place. Reach in the bottom side with the pliers and disconnect the large drain line clamp so you have more room to swing the back out. There also might be a little plastic thingy to twist out of a slot in the back (maybe a vibration damper?) You will see the water inlet valve just inside the back on the side. The inlet hose connections are actually a part of the inlet valve. It is now possible to reach in from the side and disconnect the small water feed line from the inlet valve with a pliers, and disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve. Remove the two screws holding the valve to the back and remove the valve.

Reassembly is actually easier than removal. Don't forget to replace the water hose washers or they will probably leak. If the hoses look bad, just buy a new set. They can be had quite cheap.

Good luck and prepare to be proud of how well your "new" washer now works and how much money you saved!

p.s. PartSelect Rocks!

Removed the hoses from the inlet valve. Removed screws that hold control panel in place . Removed control panel which exposed two clips that hold the top of the back panel. Removed the ground screw freeing the ground wire, removed the plastic loom which holds a bundle of wires. I next removed the plastic plate that protects the fill valve from splashed water. Removed the screw that holds the valve in place, then removed the wires and the fill hose. Reversed steps to put back together.

took off the rear panel and removed the existing inlet valve and installed the new one. Replaced the rear panel and the machine work better than ever.

First, I unplugged it and disconnected the water hoses (the water has been off to it for days). Then, I tried taking off the back of the washing machine. This didn't work, and I actually ended up googling instructions and found pretty detailed, illustrated instructions at Popular Mechanics.
You need to unscrew the front panel that contains all of the controls first, flip it up, and unhook it from the back of the washer (via an electronics clip and 2 metal clips). The outer cover can then be taken off. I recommend undoing the internal hose next -- I used adjustable pliers to squeeze the connecter and loosen the hose. Then, unscrew the water inlet valve and take it off.

Putting everything back together literally just means reversing the instructions.

My washing machine is on a raise service, and I still haven't gotten the outer frame completely back in place correctly, but it's not touching anything or creating any problems. It's really only to safeguard parts anyways, so no worries if it's not perfect -- at least it works now!

First I turned off the water to the washer and then removed the hot/cold water hoses going to the washer, unscrewed the water hoses from the washer, and cleaned the wire screens located immediately inside the inlet water valve. This did not solve the problem. Second, I loosened the hex head screws on the back panel of the washer. This allowed me access to the valve. I tested the valve solenoids with my ohm/volt meter and all checked out OK (but this did not make sense). Third, I surfed the web to find out if the symtoms of the washer's problem were the same as experienced by other people. I found several reports of the same symptoms, all which were solved by replacing the water inlet valve. This conformed my original diagnosis although the valve tested as OK. Fourth, I ordered the part from PartSelect, and removed the hose clamp and two mounting screws holding the old valve to the back panel of the washer and removed the old valves. Last, when the new valve arrived, I assembled the new backing plate to the new valve, attached it to the washer's back panel, attached the water hoses to the valve after fitting new rubber seals to the inside of the hoses, and reattached the washer back panel. The washer is working perfectly again.

turn off hot and cold water faucets,unplug the power,pull washer out to gain access to rear cover, remove the top control panel screws,push back and lift off, disconnect hot and cold water hoses from inlet valve and remove enough screws from the back panel to remove the valve, disconnect the valve from the tub fill hose (mine had a spring type hose clamp) note the orientataion of the hot and cold hoses and the solenoid connectors for the hot and cold sides,(mine is stamped in the rear cover)reconnect and reassemble in reverse order and check for proper operation.

I removed the faulty valve after unplugging the AC cord. Two screws, the two water hoses were removed, and the electrical connections were unplugged. The old valve could then be rotated so that the clamp on the fill tube could be loosened and the tube pulled off the valve.
The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job.
Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal.
I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.