11088732794 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I loosened two screws which held the knob panel in place. I undid the two clips holding the cabinet and removed it. The pump has two clips holding it on, I removed those and the pump came free. Taking advice from these forums, I did not remove the hoses attached. I disconnected the wiring harnesses from the motor. The motor has 2 clips also, these being held on with screws. I removed the screws and the clips. THE MOTOR IS HEAVY.
You will see the coupling on the "spindle" of the motor. In my case, both plastic pieces were cracked in 2 places. I removed the old coupling and cleaned the "spindles" and lightly regreased.
The replacement pieces I ordered were the "improved" ones with the metal insert. They were a tight fit on the motor but I used a socket and hammer. (lightly). Line up the coupling pieces, reattach clips, DONT FORGET THOSE SCREWS HOLDING THE MOTOR CLIPS. Pump goes on next, etc. MAKE SURE ALL WIRING IS RECONNECTED! Cabinet goes back on, large clips holding cabinet to rear of machine go back on. Knob console flipped down and reattached.
Plugged it in and I was good to go! This washer is almost ten years old and this is the second time I have been able to bring it back from the dead, the first time being the agitator "dogs" wearing out. THANKS PARTSELECT!

We had to take the motor out and remove the coupling, when putting it back together we had some problems because the washer was on its side and the lid was open. After putting the motor and coupling back together we tried to turn it on, unknowing to us the lid was open so nothing would happen, finally we realized the lid was open. The actual repair was not complicated, just human error made it seem than way

I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.

Watch the video before I received the part. Made it very simple to replace and which screws to take out.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

1. Removed back panel.
2. Removed Entire control paned, control and switch units disconnecting wiring assembly from motor.
3 Tilted front and side panel assembly away from frame, tub assembly and motor transmission assembly.
4.Removed cap from top of agitator, removed bolt holding agitator. Removed agitator, this part was tricky since some corrosion on shaft made agitator very difficult to pull off.
4. From bottom of unit disconnected motor/transmission unit from wash tub.
5. Located clutch assembly and removed lock washers. Removed clutch and replaced with new one.
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Steps 1 thru 3 were unnecessary.
All that needed to be done was to removed the agitator assembly. then turn unit on it's side or back and removed motor and transmission from the bottom.

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

Repair went well and relatively easy, but did not fix the problem.
Suspect timer switch was the culprit. Nothing was clogged or plugged
up. Water pump and impeller were free and clear with no damage
or leaks.

After flipping the washer on it's side snap off the clips that hold the motor in place and discard the old coupling. The new coupling fits in very snug some may need a little persuation to attach but once attached the motor lines up nicely and just snap back the clips, turn the washer over and test with a fresh load.

Followed the instructions. Removed two screws on front panel, flipped it up and popped up the retainer clips. Tipped the washer body forward. Unscrewed the old valve and replaced with the new. Reversed the previous procedures and put the whole thing back together. I had put up with this low flowing water for a couple years. Now it fills like new!

Raised washer on cinder blocks high enough to get underneath, removed wiring, capacitor (because it got in the way), removed spring clips from pump, removed pump, no water spillage this way. removed clips from motor, removed motor, pulled old broken coupling rubber ring and plastic pieces out, used a spark plug driver to press new ones in place on the gear shaft and motor as they will fit tighter because they have a metal reinforcement that the original did not have, lined up the two halfs and clipped motor back on, cliped pump back on, reconnected wires again, lowered off the blocks and washed a couple loads that night.

First I unscrewed two screws holding the back panel. Unscrewed the screws holding the water valve onto the back panel. With a screwdriver, pried the panel out far enough to pull the old water inlet valve out. Remove the connections on the old valve and replace with the new one. Screw everything back together. Fairly easy repair. Cold water flows like new and the noise is gone. Hope to get another few years out of the washer for this $25 fix.

Unplugged it. Removed the two screws holding the panel on. This model had the screws on the front. Unplugged the wire harness and tipped the control panel back. I popped off the clips for the cabinet and slid it off the frame. On the back of the washing machine, I unscrewed two screws that held the water inlet valve in place. I unhooked the two wire harnesses on the inlet valve. Slid the clamp on the small hose back and pulled the hose off the inlet valve. Once I had the old part off, it was just a matter of doing it all in reverse. I did have to screw the metal plate that came with the part onto the part before I installed it. I put the small hose onto the new inlet valve and slid the clamp back in place on the hose. Put the new valve through the holes on the back of the machine, and replaced the two screws. Click the two wire harnesses back on, making sure to put the RED harness on the HOT valve (the holes have the stamp H and C on the back of the machine itself. Slid the cabinet back into place. Put the wire harness back on. Replaced the cabinet retainer clips. Slid the control panel back into the slots and replaced the two screws for it. That was it. All told it took me 15 minutes total. This was an extremely easy repair.

I went to Youtube, looked up motor coupling repair for a Kenmore/Whirlpool washer. Chris Fix had an easy to follow video. I tilted the machine back, propped it up. Removed four clips holding two parts in place. Replaced the faulty coupler, Set the engine back in place replaced the clips, and was finished for a total price of $18.