1108873279A Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The first and best thing I did was watch the instructional video. This was very helpful. I removed the lint trap and two screws, then pried the top off using a putty knife as described in the video. I I disconnected the wiring harness and the two screws holding the front panel, then removed the panel. Next, I removed the belt from the drum and removed the drum. I had a little difficulty removing the clips holding the rollers, but was able to pry them off after a few minutes. I installed the new rollers and reassembled everything. Note: I used the nut driver to push the new clips onto the roller pins. The problem was resolved and the dryer is working fine!

first removed 2 screws under lint screen door ,then popped up top of dryer (lid),removed 2 screws holding front cover of dryer on,removed front cover,after removing 2 wires from door switch,then took belt off of drum by releasing tensioner,removed drum to access drum rollers,removed old rollers & installed new rollers,and reassembled by reversing this procedure

Used repair video as guideline, I did not have their lab conditions to work in and by no means a clean machine. Also I had a two part front panel vs. single as in video, so disassembly and reassembly were OJT."on job training". Video was however very usefull in locating problem, getting correct part and accomplishing the repair. Saved $$ and machine is now working properly again. Am saving this web-site to my favorites list.

Pull out lint filter and remove the two philips head screws.....Then use a flat screwdriver to gently pry loose the top front corners of the dryer.

After safely securing the top in an upright postion.....disconnected the door switch....then remove the two 5/16 inch metal screws holding the front of the dryer on.

Once screws are removed.... gently lift the entire front of the dryer...up and off of the unit.....exposing the dryer drum assembly.

By releasing the tension on the drum belt "idler pully... you can then remove the belt from the pulley on the electric motor.....and then move the complete drum assembly straight forward and out of the machine...through the opening provided ( There is an area that has been "cut out" of the metal...especially for this procedure)

Once drum assemby is out of the way.....all that is required....to change the support rollers...is to pry off the plastic retainer "clips" ( Triangle shaped) and slide the rollers off of the shafts.

Although the original rollers had not originally been lubricated in any way , at the factory ( Possibly the reason for the premature failure)....I decided to apply a coating of lithium grease to the shafts and inside of the rollers, prior to re-assembly.

Once rollers were installed and retainer clips in place.....re-assembly was accomplished by "reverse order" of the teardown procedure.

After unit was re-assembled...it ran quieter than it ever has!

part fit perfect

Repair went fine. Really easy for the most part. Unfortunately it didn't solve my problem. Great place to get parts though. I'm going to continue my search for the source of the noise

After removing the front of the dryer it was evident that the blower boss had broken where the motor shaft comes through and is attached. I removed a few more parts to make the blower more accessible and removed it. I then machined a new boss and attached it to the blower and reinstalled it.I then did a quick continuity check on the three thermostats since the dryer was already apart.I discovered one was faulty and ordered a new one from you.That repair took all of five minutes.The irony of the whole thing is that while I was ordering the thermostat from you,I asked out of curiosity,if the blower was still available. As it turns out it still is but the new machined part worked out great and the dryer was back up and running in no time.

Thanks again,
Dave

I made it very difficult. I didn't research the repair. My back is old. It's easier if you just You Tube a video. The top roller you have to take drum completely out. The bottom one, The one that failed for me, you can actually do it without taking anything apart. Access it at bottom back, two holes. I do not have small hands, it would have been easier. Channel Locks inside, 9/16th socket outside. That will loosen main axle. Then use short screwdriver or socket driver on small bracket connected to bottom of unit. Mine had one screw holding it in. Easy bottom fix. I don't really recommend replacing top till it needs it. You can only buy them by the pair too. You will be ready when time comes. I found top roller didn't actually need replacing, did it cause I had it all apart. Don't fix if not broke, right? Trust, BUT, Verify. Smaller hands, would have helped me. All I got.

used your video instructions were great a great tool to repair. know wonder the maytag man is not busy ha ha .

Found the assembly manual page for that model on your site, disassembled the washer top, replaced the bad switch, re-assembled, tested the washer [worked perfectly], and I was done. Couldn't have gone any smoother or quicker if I had planned it. This is the second repair that I have used PartSelect. Their parts are competitively priced and I am still amazed at the shipping transit time. I paced the order on Monday nite at 9PM PST, and I have it Wednesday AM, so 1 day, coast to coast. Keep up the great work, PartSelect !!!!

Removed front and back covers on dryer, screws on top and down one side to spread cabinet to remove drum,removed blower cover to get access to shaft nut on that side. The other is accessible. I found that both shafts can bethe longer of the two that were sent. The shorter shaft is too short and needed to be modified to let the roller come outward to lay in the grove in the drum. I will get a longer shaft and replace it.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

always unplug from outlet first, unscrewed the back off and pull off the wire from cycling thermostat ,take the two screw out that holding it in place and replace the new one .Very simple and easy. Thank you for the easy step by step video to complete this repair. James

wasnt a repair but a replace