41799190820 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The loud noise was present only while using the dryer of my washer/dryer combo unit. I traced the noise down to the rear center of the dryer and I noticed that the noise would stop or be quieter if I pushed on this area with my hand while the dryer was running. I realized there must be some type of bearing supporting the weight of the dryer drum while allowing it to rotate. I did a Google search for parts on my model # and found Parts Select. I used the parts diagrams to figure out what parts were the likely problem. I found the rear bearing part# and watched the very helpful video showing how to replace it.

I removed the drum on my dryer and found the bearing and socket to be completely dry (no grease) and showing a lot of wear. The dryer heat element surrounds the bearing so I think 10 years of use had dried up all the grease. I purchased the bearing kit so I swapped out the old parts for everything in the kit. I also noticed the drum belt was split in places and little black dots all over the inside of the drum area were small pieces of the belt. I replaced the belt and took the opportunity to vacuum the drum area because it was covered with 10 years of lint. The bearing replacement video was extremely helpful and I was able to replace parts easily even though I had a different dryer than in the video. My dryer is much quieter now and I didn't have any screws left over!! I will definitely shop Parts Select again!!

As instructed by a Frigidaire Video for a Laundry Center: FIRST disconnect the power I then removed the access panel, Safety Shield was missing (previous Serviceman never replaced), Entire door assembly and the top cover. Doing this exposed the entire Drum and made installation VERY easy. Always research your job as there are many reliable videos instructions available, it takes the fear and guess work out and leaves only confidence ahead. I am 63 yrs old and if I can attempt this anyone can!

I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.

Installation was easy, however watch repair instructions video for your model number to easily remove front access panel.

Remove 2 screws from back of unit, remove top by lifting and pulling up, set aside. Using pliers,needle-nose, remove the 2 wires from switch, then using a magitized philips screw driver, remove 2 screws holding switch to back of unit, replace switch, reassemble everything. 20 minutes, boom, ur done, dry some clothes now

Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.

Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!

Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)

Order the Bearing Kit and Belt. All the necessary parts are included. I used them all and everything fit perfect. For the stack unit have a step stool to reach the screws on top. Remove the top screws. Remove the front panel and door assembly. Be sure to disconnect the electrical connector behind the control panel before you pull out the door assembly. Remove the belt. Pop up the dryer drum and remove. Replace all the bearing parts with new in the kit. Hang the new belt around the drum and reinstall the drum. Connect the belt using the access panel on rear of unit. Reinstall the front panel, door assembly and top panel. A helper to install the new drum bearing bracket is handy.

After lifting the dryer top and finding the location of the thermal limiter on the back of the dryer, where it is difficult to get at, I carefully cut through the dryer cabinet with the multimaster on three sides to form a 'flap' upon which the limiter was mounted. By prying this flap open from the back, the two wires and two screws are easily accessible to replace the limiter, without having to remove the whole drum. Afterwards, I just bent the flap back into place and taped the seams. If it ever blows again, the fix will take all of about two minutes.

UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package