11099576200 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I'd noticed for a while that our 15-year-old Kenmore washer was filling slowly, but when it started to take 30 minutes to fill to the "medium" level, I knew something was really wrong. There was plenty of water pressure, so I replaced a hose that was loaded with minerals and cleaned the filter (also clogged with minerals). But that didn't help! So I ordered a new water inlet valve, and replaced that. There's nothing tricky about the repair -- the hardest part is opening and closing the washer, for which I found instructions online. (Even so, it's the most time-consuming part of the project.) The result is the washer now fills as fast as when it was new. Just for fun, I took apart the old valve and expected to find it encrusted with minerals, but it looked fine, so I'm not sure where the actual breakdown was. But since the part only cost $25 -- less than a service call, for sure -- I was very happy to use a half hour of my time and keep the machine going a while longer.

The repair was very easy. The original dial was a poor design and did not hold up to the twisting and finally let loose. The threaded bottom of the dial stayed on the threaded shaft, so it was a simple matter of grabbing it with nose pliers and spinning off. Glue does not work with this type of plastic, I tried instant glue and hot glue. The replacement part was re-designed with a metal threaded center, so when it arrived in the mail, 3 days after online ordering, I spun it onto the shaft and job was complete. While I waited for the new part to arrive, I threaded 2 nuts onto the shaft and tightened them to each other to give me a temporary 'knob' that I could grab with my nose pliers.

Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.

Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

Washer is 29 years old. Found that tub spring hooks into a simple (non-reinforced) hole in the base frame, and it had worn the hole through through the edge of the frame (key hole style). Due to age and low cost of parts, ordered all suspension springs, brackets, & pads. Once they arrived, took the tubs out (first time for that), found that the suspension pads looked fine, but the wear pads showed a lot of wear and the front one was snapped in the middle, perhaps an after effect of the spring failure. From my lack of attention, initially tried to get front pad into the wrong set of holes, a bad fit; corrected. Simply drilled a near-by hole in the base frame for the tub spring.

While the tubs were out, took them outside and scrubbed them clean. Also cleaned agitator parts using bottle brushes. Followed the PartSelect videos and owner comments for procedures, methods. Found that some miss some important info, but if you watch others you can combine the info to find what you need re disassembly/assembly.

At one point while attempting to remove the outer tub, did not realize that the screw that holds the rear spring bracket to the tub also holds the tub to the suspension plate.

Took me most of a day for the whole process, and I ended up with pulled/spasmic muscles from all the bending over, mostly from cleaning parts I think. Very helpful to have the parts breakout drawings, videos, others' experience.

First my son and I moved the dryer to the garage as we believed there would be a lot of lint possible during disassembly. Used a flat head screwdriver to pop the top from dryer housing. Then removing 2 nuts to facilitate the removal of the front of the dryer. The drum was able to be removed to diagnose the offending drum roller wheel. The drum roller wheel has experienced a failure as it had melted off of the metal spacer. Removing it and replacing with the new one was pretty easy. We then used a shop vac and an air hose to clean out all the lint, coins, paper clips and lost jewelry. Surprisingly there was not a single sock in there. Put it all back together in reverse order and plugged it in and now spins like a dream.

I took off the front panel via 2 screws on the inside of the dryer with the top panel in the maintenance position. Pulled out the tub(cut my hand pretty bad in the process but continued). Did some cleaning and I had to google how the belt tensioner goes into place. Rather difficult on your own i held the belt and placed the tub back into place while placing the belt around the tub putting it in the correct area. thats pretty much it and began reinstalling the parts i had removed.. easy fix now that i have done it once. This is all after my landlords said they werent replacing it and just to have this one hauled off, so all in all i have a 26 dollar dryer now:)

the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.

Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer.
I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls.
Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.

somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme

I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger

The start switch on my Kenmore dryer was bad, causing the dryer to go into another timed cycle once it completed one cycle, and it would keep going until we unplugged it or left the door open. I repaired the switch at first, but after a couple of months the contacts bent again, so I just decided to replace it.

The new switch from PartSelect.com was only $8 or so plus shipping. Once I got the switch, I removed the rear access panel, disconnected the bad switch, and replaced it with the new switch. I closed the dryer up and it worked beautifully.

You can find detailed instructions on replacing the push-to-start switch on a Kenmore 70 series dryer on Fixya.com:

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

My husband actually did the repairs all I know is he removed the lid, removed the old switch and put in the new one. My washer works now and thats all I care about. I thank you for having the part and at a reasonable cost we were able to repair our washer considering it is twin stackable and is over 10 years old.
Thanks again!!!!