41799390100 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

filter inalled

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)

Replaced rear drum bearing, drum support bearing & drum belt. Still very noisy. Will order new motor & see if that does the trick.

I just popped up the top front using a large straight (slotted) screw driver, then removed the 2 screws at the bottom front, then the whole front panel popped down about a half inch to be lifted out of the way. I found the old drive belt way down under the motor (still attached as normal), very near the floor and removed the worn out belt by hand, and replaced it with the new belt by hand also. The spring loaded belt tightener- idler wheel makes this a very simple process to accomplish. Then, I replaced the front panel-- all done. Works like new.

unplugged machine. pried up with large regular screwdiver on top washer lid. removed two phillips screws bottom of front panel, had to use rubber mallet to drive front panel down to remove as was rusty and old. removed old belt using screwdriver. put new belt under tub pulley and put belt on small pulleys. kept moving tub and springs by pushing on tub. Took several tries to get new belt to go on the large tub pulley but finally did it. I used the instructions you gave for replacing broken drive belt and it worked. replaced front panel and two phillips screws, put top back on and away it went.

UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.

After lifting the dryer top and finding the location of the thermal limiter on the back of the dryer, where it is difficult to get at, I carefully cut through the dryer cabinet with the multimaster on three sides to form a 'flap' upon which the limiter was mounted. By prying this flap open from the back, the two wires and two screws are easily accessible to replace the limiter, without having to remove the whole drum. Afterwards, I just bent the flap back into place and taped the seams. If it ever blows again, the fix will take all of about two minutes.

Installation was easy, however watch repair instructions video for your model number to easily remove front access panel.

Placed new lint filter in proper slot.

Smelled burning rubber, checked belt. Belt was cracked and worn out. Easy repair. Removed front of the machine held together with two screws at the bottom of the unit. Removed top cover of machine (the part with the lid). It just pops off. Pushed tensioner wheel in and took off old belt. Putting new belt on was super easy. Working like a champ now. $20 total with shipping. Not too bad to save a washing machine.

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!

Romoved front from dryer . Then loosened tub , slid belt on , reached in back and put belt on pulley , turned tub till belt went into place and reassembled dryer all with the help of a 3 year old and an8 year old,so in my oppinion it was one of the easiest fixes i've ever done!

I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.