41799190800 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

i took apart the dryer and then took out the drum from the inside and then put the new bearing in and put everything back in

First, used a putty knife to open the top of the dryer. Second, unscrewed the front panel and removed it by pulling up and out. The drum drops down slightly after doing this. Third, open the back grating and disconnect the belt from the motor and idle pulley. Fourth, Pull the drum (with belt) out through the front opening. Jerk up HARD on the back of the drum to disconnect it from the bearing seat. Fifth, replace bearing parts and seat according to diagram. I found it very difficult to unscrew the bearing axle from the drum. Had to hold down the drum and press hard to get screws to turn without stripping. Finally, put back together in reverse, don't forget to put A LOT of grease in your new bearing seat before reconnecting.

first and foremost, watching video on replacement/repair was key to success.furthermore, i ordered part one day and was at my doorstep the following day. the installation process took approximately half of an hour which included vaccuuming cabinet of lint.

I love technology. First thing I did was google on "U-tube", "How to repair a squeaking dryer". Several videos out there so I just found the one I needed and watched. The repair itself went easy. A word of advice would be to be careful of sharp edges and to remember to unplug the machine prior to repair. While the drum is out, go ahead and get your shop vac and clean the inside of the unit out. Also, not only put grease on the new plastic holder, but put some on the shaft of the idler puller. I also used an awl to line up the holes on the front panel when re-installing the screws. One video I watched showed reaching in through the front to take the drum belt off the pulley, where another showed removing the inspection plate on the back. This made it much easier.

Removed the top of the dryer above the dryer door by pulling the pop out plastic holds. I then removed the dryer plug in at the top inside dryer that controls the start when dryer door is closed. I thenremoved the screws that are located at the back of the dryer tub where the bearing is located. I then replaced the support bearing. I just replaced every thing I took off in reverse.

Lift washer lid by jerking the lid up and open. Remove front panel by removing 2 screws at front bottom and guiding tabs out of slots. Locate tabs on tub cover and gently pry loose with a flat blade screwdriver or putty knife. Remove tub cover and inspect seal area for damage or debris. Replace new tub cover on tub and align and fasten each tab. Ensure that lid is securely fastened to tub by pressing top of cover down and visually inspecting that each tab is engaged with tub hooks. Replace front panel. Use anti-seize grease when replacing the 2 front panel screws. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top lid spring clips before closing washer top. (The last 2 tips will help any future opening of the washer.)

Pulled out the machine. Disconnected water lines. Removed four screws attaching the top brackets. In rear of top panel. Slid top panel forward and clear of valve. Removed two wire harnesses. Removed two screws holding valve to the back panel. Pulled valve down and out. Removed outlet side line spring clamp with channel lock pliers and pulled hose off old valve. Installed outlet side hose and spring clamp onto new valve. Placed valve up into place and installed two screws. Installed two wiring harnesses. Replaced top lid. Replaced lid bracket screws. Re-attached water hoses and pushed the machine back into place.

Removed two screws that held top of washer in place. removed top of washer. Removed two screws that held water inlet alve in place. Removed clamp and outlet hose from old inlet valve.












































































Removed two screws hold wash machine cover in place. Removed cover. Unscrewed cold and hot water supply lines from old inlet valve. Removed two screws holding inlet valve in place. Removed clamp and hose from inlet outlet hose. Replaced inew inlet in reverse order.

my husband did the work he can fix anything.i watched he explained what he was doing and how he was getting it done.it did"nt take long at all.the biggest problem was setting the belt tensioner . its running great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Replace the Drum Bearing and Shaft

I followed others instructions on this site to disassemble but felt confident since 2-3 years prior I had replaced the felt top/bottom guides around the drum and the drum belt. The video on this page is also helpful

1) Pop the top with a putty knife
2) Unscrew two screws that hold the front onto the dryer frame
3) Lift front from two clips at bottom of dryer
4) Release tension from belt (unscrew/remove rear access plate)
4) Lift drum up and forward out of dryer
5) Unscrew drum bearing 3x screws from inside of drum
5) Remove the drum bearing holder
6) Pre-thread the rear drum bearing!!! Very important. Thread by screwing a supplied screw slowly through the pre-drilled holes.
7) Attach drum bearing
8) Attach new rear holder/cup & ball bearing (ball bearing goes on outside of plastic cup)
9) Use lots of supplied grease, espeiclly helpful that it acts as a temporary glue holding the ball bearing in place
10) Reverse steps to assemble

I'm glad I bought the entire rear bearing kit as I found the bearing holder had completely worn through and partially melted the metal cup. The ball bearing was missing - gone!

Also found that the power cord had partially melted, so I replaced that from the hardware store. Scary.

I had trouble with the little piece on the back side of the dryer not lining up with the bearing housing. I also didn't see how the drum was gonna stay in place but finally realized the front cover lines it up. All in all it was awesome to get the part I needed so quickly and cheap, thanks a lot.

Taking apart cleaning putting back together I don't have any h-t lube so ill be doing it again. Thanks for the part ill be calling again!

I have a frigidaire dryer about 5 years old.

I first removed the top cover being careful to watch how the wires to the controls are connected. It is best to snap photos with your digital camera so you can remember how to reconnect the wires.

Pulling up on the drum, I lifted it out of the rear sleeve. Once out, you could easily see why it squealed. The metal bearing had groves on it where is made contact with the holder.

The difficult part of this was getting the 3 screws that hold the bearing to the drum off. The phillips screw head was easily marred if you don't have the proper screw driver bit. I think a better screw head would make the job easier.

After removal, the replacement was a snap. When everything was back together, the dryer sounded like new. The job took me about 2 hrs due to the hard part of removing the screws.

We had the rear drum bearing replaced about three years ago. The company that serviced it was quick to take our money for the diagnosis but took over a month (and a threat to call the better business bureau) to actually make the repair. This time I decided to do it my self as I had successfully replaced the the drum drive belt two years ago. The dissassembly was challenging but the repair it's self very easy. I opted to use nuts and bolts to attach the bearing assembly rather than the supplied screws as they did not want to tighten. Reassmbly was a bit of a challenge regarding the drum drive belt but I had the entire repair done in less than an hour.