41799576810 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Customer responses / directions were great nothing to add - except no where does anyone mention "high temperature grease" for the Drum Support Bearing - only on the video is it mentioned numerous times. I honestly think it took longer to vacuum out all the lint then it did to do the repairs.

remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

This repair is realy very easy
As discribed by the others

i left my washer on its back till my belt came in and when it did all i had to do is slip the front off and go at it. it was really fast. then i put the front back on screwed in two screws and hooked up hoses and started washing everything went smooth till i was about to wash wash-n-wear and was like where is my other houseshoe and i remember my dog was bugging me while fixing my washer and dropped my house shoe and i already closed up front soi had to unhook everything and get that out, did not want it to catch on that belt i just bought and fixed lol thanks kristal cumpton

Very easy to install. Unscrew 2 screws and I was done in minutes. Thanks for the fast part delivery!

I read the last three peoples experiences when I ordered the part on your on line page. I had already made all the wrong mistakes taking the machine apart, and couldn't beleive how simplified it was on your web site. I had called a local repair shop only to be advised the part would take 4 days shipping and the price of it plus shipping was twice what I paid you. Your part arrived the day after I ordered it on line, Thanks again for being there!!!!!

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

Lifted lid/top of washer pulling straight up and removed front panel (2 screws at bottom). Removed old tub cover by prying tabs off the tub clips. Aligned new cover and seal over tub and pressed down to engage tabs with tub clips. Easy repair. Re-installed front panel and 2 screws, closed washer top by pressing down to engage the spring clips. I used anti-seize grease on the front panel screws and I used a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top/lid spring clips to make future removal easier(just in case.)

Tensioner (pulley spring) replacement.

The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

Unplugged unit. Proceeded to remove front and back covers. Took drum unit out after loosening belt, unplugged wire plug from motor. Removed belt tightening unit. Removed screws holding motor to plate. Took lint catcher unit out of front then removed motor and fan unit combination through front. Reversed procedure. Mounted fan combo motor unit. Put drum in place at front and suspended back part of drum with homemade wire hook. Put belt around drum, then put back cover back in place, removed wire hook and secured back panel. Installed belt tightened. Put lint catcher unit in. Replaced front covers. Procedure was challenging since dryer was part of stack unit. Probably could have left lint catcher unit in and just removed motor fan unit from back.

Removed drum replaced bearing with kit, replaced both front drum seals and drive belt. The only problem was when replacing the rear drum ball the three screw holes were poorly tapped and took several tries to get them in. The manufacturers could easily fix this problem. They could provide self tapping hex head screws instead of the Phillips head screws. Everything else went very smoothly.

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA