41799375810 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.

Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!

Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

Once I found this site, with everybody's description of the problem & fix, it was pretty easy.
Pry the front of the top up using a flat screwdriver at each side. Then disconnected the dryer-controls wire bundle (dryer unplugged of course) at the connector, and unscrewed 1 screw on each side of the front panel close to the top (under the controls, back-side of the panel), in order to pry the front panel off - top 1st.
With everything opened up, just unscrew the two screws on top of the burner coil. the pull off the plate, slip off the 2 coils, disconnect the wires, and install the new coils in reverse. Put it all back together and you're good!
(I replaced the drum glides too, while I was in there - just in time!)

Order the Bearing Kit and Belt. All the necessary parts are included. I used them all and everything fit perfect. For the stack unit have a step stool to reach the screws on top. Remove the top screws. Remove the front panel and door assembly. Be sure to disconnect the electrical connector behind the control panel before you pull out the door assembly. Remove the belt. Pop up the dryer drum and remove. Replace all the bearing parts with new in the kit. Hang the new belt around the drum and reinstall the drum. Connect the belt using the access panel on rear of unit. Reinstall the front panel, door assembly and top panel. A helper to install the new drum bearing bracket is handy.

Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)

Before this fix which worked beautifully, I tried replacing the flame sensor which did not work. To read that story, search under part number PS459818 (Flame Sensor). Our model is a Westinghouse, so access to the unit is a bit different than the other stories. It's a stacked front-loader sitting on top of a washing machine.

1. Open the little front door (lower left side) by unscrewing the little screw right below it. The door will pivot and slide out vertically.
2. Disconnect the electrical main lead coming from the back of the unit (just in case).
3. Close the gas switch lever on main gas pipe coming from the back on left side (just in case).
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on top of the metal bracket holding the two coils. The screws have to be removed completely along with the bracket. It's easy, they are right in front and there is room for the screwdriver. Use a thin long one instead of one with multiple bits to better align with the screws, which are very close to the coils.
3. The two coils slide right out and are very different so it's easy to keep them straight. Remove electrical connectors before or after removing the coils (I marked the plastic on top with a sharpie to keep them in the right orientation).
4. Drop in the two new coils and reconnect them to the electrical leads.
5. Reconnect main electrical lead from back (match wire colors)
6. Reopen gas lever on gas pipe.
7. Drop in front cover at an angle, tilt vertically and put screw back underneath. Use magnetized screwdriver or a piece of scotch tape to hold the screw or it might fall off the screwdriver.
8. Voila'. It worked.

This website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fix it's just like new. In 1994 we used parts bought here to fix our washing machine (Westinghouse LT350RXW1). That machine is now 15 years old and still going!

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.