LSE2700W-8 Jenn-Air Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

This was a pretty simple repair. In this case, the part purchased here was not the actual problem, but had to be disturbed to fix another problem. After many years, corrosion and exhaustion of grease caused the bushing on the agitator shaft to seize, and the belts to slip. In this model machine, the bushing is accessed by first removing the agitator, which is held on by a single 1/4 inch set screw, and then removing the agitator seal, which is held in by a little spring clip on top of a washer. It's soft rubber, and you will probably need a small screwdriver or pocket knife to pry it out. In this case, the bushing was not too bad, so I was able to clean the hardened grease out and free it up with a little oil, using vise grips to rotate the agitator shaft, until the oil worked in enough.

Since seals don't like to be disturbed and reinstalled, and this one requires some prying to get out, I bought a new seal, even though the old one did not leak when I temporarily reinstalled it. There is a spring inside the seal, and it is packed with grease. The new seal comes with the spring and the grease already in it, so all that is needed is to slip it over the shaft (the top has some print embossed on it, making it easy to remember which is the top), press the washer down on top of it, and replace the spring clip.Slip the agitator back on its shaft and retighten the set screw, and you're back in business.

Run the machine, and check the area where the transmission enters the bottom of the tub. There's a little weep hole there, and if the seal leaks, you'll see water coming out there.

Just placed the new filter in place. Fit fine and works well.

I moved wash machine away from wall and unplugged from wall outlet. Shut off water, then removed hot and cold water lines from water inlet valve,removed screw from mounting plate and removed valve from wash machine. Checked to see if replacement valve was compatible (exact fit).
Unscrewed the two screws holding valve to mounting plate,unscrewed hose clamp and removed water line at top of valve (outlet). Removed the four wires from solinoids.Replaced the four wires onto the new valve as they were on the old valve,reattached water line onto the top of valve and tightened.Reattached valve to mount plate with the two screws and mounted back onto machine. Hooked up hot and cold water lines back onto valve and snugged with pliers. Turned on water checked for leaks (no leaks), and did a load of laundry. Super simple,well worth doing yourself.

Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...

1 Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet
2 remove vent pipe
3 Tilt dryer backwards and remove front cover bottom 2 philips screws.
4 remove lint assembly and then the fan blower housing with nut driver.
5 with pliers remove retainer clip from fan
6 remove snap ring with pliers or a flat blade screw driver will also work.
7 remove fan
at the same time I replaced the front glides if you do not want to do this then reinstall in reverse order and job is complete.

for glide replacement
1 remove the 4 screws holding the outer ring to the frame of the dryer.
2 drill out old rivits from the back side and then knock out. be careful to only drill rivit and not into metal frame
3 install new new glides makesure you install in correct direction.
4 install pop rivets with stud end on top side of glide. pushing rivet through glide and into the frame ring.
5 pop rivits and make sure they are secure.
6 reinstall ring making sure seal is around ring correctly
7 reintal 4 screws.
8 follow reassembly of blower and lint housing if you changed the fan. if not then just the lint assembly.

good luck the job is really easy and you will save yourself some money

The job went fast an well

The repair itself was pretty easy. Though I had figured out what needed to be done on my own while I waited for the belt to arrive via Fed Ex, the belt arrived with instructions that described the plan I had already figured and if I hadn't known what I was doing, the instructions would have been a great help.

STEP ONE, UNPLUG THE UNIT (and/or shut off the gas supply), CAREFULLY. Then, I took the front of the unit off by removing the 2 screws on the front panel near the bottom of the unit and disconnected the wiring that shuts the unit off when the door is opened. Set the front door panel aside. Then I removed the front of the tumbler retainer along with the exhaust duct and lint screen assembly by removing 4 screws that affixed the reatiner frame to the rest of the outer cabinet. Set this aside as well. Remove the entire tumbler unit. Set aside. Remove 4 screws on the back of the unit that hold the tensioner and motor access panel and remove it. Set it aside. At this point, I vacuumed every bit of lint and debris from the snapped belt out of the enitre unit, lubricated/greased all moving parts, cleaned off the friction bearing surfaces, and collected loose change ($1.35).

When the belt arrived, I unwrapped it, and placed the smooth side to the tumbler and rubber banded the slack off to the bottom right side (sort of the 4:30 position as you put the tumbler back into the unit). I carefully jimmied the tumbler back into the unit BEING CAREFUL not to pinch the groved belt between the tumbler and any other parts inside the cabinet. I replaced the tumbler retainer and screwed the 4 bolts back into place. I spun the tumbler over near the tensioner assembly (so I could see the slack through the access panel hole in the back) and removed the rubber band. I threaded the belt through the tensioner and over the drive pulley and rotated the tumbler clockwise to align the drive train of the belt. I plugged the 2 wires back into the switch on the inside of the door panel and then I replaced it on the front of the unit and screwed the 2 screws back in at the bottom front of the panel. I plugged the unit back in and tested opperation. It worked great! I unplugged the unit again (I'm not finished yet). I then replaced the access panel on the back of the unit and screwed the 4 screws back in. I moved the unit back against the wall and plugged it back in. Done! The dryer is less noisey now and more efficient most likely b/c I cleaned all the lint out of the thing! Thanks for the prompt shipment of the belt!! I'll get a few more years out of this dryer before spending $700 on a new one!!! Thanks again!

Water was leaking at the injector nozzle during the fill cycle. I could not visually see any damage to the existing part, but, ordered replacement parts, anyway. The new parts arrived and looked EXACTLY like the old ones. Clearly, the new parts would leak, too. So, I cut a three-inch length of 3/4-inch OD pipe and spliced the two hoses together, completely eliminating the troublesome parts. The washer works fine and does not leak. And, it fills much faster, now. I still have no clue as to the purpose of the injector nozzle nor do I know why it did NOT leak for 30 years.

The motor was easy to replace: unplug the wiring harness, slip off the belts, release the tension springs from the motor carriage with needle-nose pliers, and then unbolt the motor carriage with socket set and remove from the washer. Remove the pulley from the old motor with allen wrench and transfer the carriage to the new motor. Reverse operation for everything and you are back in business. The hardest part was the far back screw holding the carriage, a wobble extension helped.

First I disconnected the power and turned off the water supply. Then removed the front panel of the washer by removing the two phillips head screws from the lower left and right front of the machine. I then removed the four hex screws at the corners of the top of the machine using a socket set. The two screws in the front of the top come out through the inside and the two screws in the back come out through the access holes in the top. Next I disconnected the bleach/softener tube from the upper end to allow the lid to be raised. Then I swung the right hand side of the lid up fully and rested it on the left hand side support using the braces provided on the lid and resting the weight on the attached support string. The injector valve, inector nozzle and injector bracket are right on top on the left hand side. The bracket is taken out by removing one hex screw on the underside of the bracket. The valve and nozzle are removed by loosening the hex screw on the hose clamp, To replace, first assemble the rubber sleeve and plastic injector. The large end of the plastic injector should fit squarely into the slot of the rubber sleeve. To insert this assembly back into the molded end of the injector hose I used a small amout of laundry detergent to lubricate the large end of the rubber sleeve. This allowed the part to slide in without displacing the rubber sleeve from the plastic injector nozzle. Now, I replaced the associated parts (lid and front panel) and turned the water on and plugged the washer back in. No more leak. Thanks to PartSelect.com my repair was easy. I did not need to replace the injector sleeve bracket but purchased the new one in case I broke the old one during the repair.

After verifying that the supply wasn't the problem, I ordered the replacement inlet valve module.

1) shut off water to machine
2) removed the hose connections from the valve
3) unplugged the washer
4) removed the plate holding the module - 1 screw
5) removed the hose clamp from the valve module to the washer inlet
6) removed the two screws holding the valve module to the plate
7) removed the 2 wire connections to each of the two solenoids.
8) Reversed all of the steps above for the new valve module.
9) checked for leaks

First I unplugged the dryer! Then unscrewed the two screws at the bottom of the front door. To remove the front door, swing the bottom up about 30 degrees until the two triangular hooks at the top of the door release. Then release the two wires going to the door switch from their harness so as to gain more slack to move the door out of the way. The switch was secured by 2 hex head sheet metal screws1/4inch in diameter. I used a small right angle socket wrench to get these loose. I only had to remove the front screw completely to be able to take the switch out for exchange purposes. Once this was done, reverse the process and plug it in! (BTW, the electrical schematic for this dryer is up under the top console)

I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

These Maytag people know how to build stuff. I was impressed with this valve. Built really smart. After a gazillion years (about 16 or so) the valve started making a funny groaning noise and the cold water flow was very slow. Took about 15-20 minutes to fill the tub.

the inlet valve is located on the back of the washer where the hoses are connected. In fact the hose connectors are part of the valve.

To replace this valve, start by unplugging and turning off the water spigots, unscrew the two hoses from the valve. (you need a towel here, but that'll be obvious soon enough.)

Unscrew the single screw at the top of the valve bracket (the bottom of the bracket is held in place without screws.) Remove the screw holding on the sheet metal and pull the bracket out as far as you can without stretching things. Write down what colors of wire are connected, then pull off the electrical connectors.

The valve outlet is a skinny (compared to the inlet hoses) rubber hose that has a clamp to hold it in place. The clamp needs to be loosened with a 3/16" nutdriver a plier would probably work, but may be hard to get in there. Now slide the clamp further up on the hose, dislodge the rubber hose off of the old valve. Now it's free.

Reverse the steps. Believe it or not, that is all. It works great and this washer probably has another 10 year left in it.

Clamp was already in multiple pieces so easy to get off.

Got clamp from partselect.com in 1 day which was great.

Removed two PH screws from front cover then pulled bottom of front cover outward and down to remove.

Caution for those doing this: take a piece of 220 or 240 grit paper and sand all the edges of the clamp. Trying to put it on without doing so will result in countless paper cuts in hands.

Before putting new clamp on be sure to use either some soap or silicon lube on the rubber V seal between upper and lover tub.

Also need to put some 1/4" to 3/8" spacers at three equally spaced places beneath the upper tub and the lower tub. If this isn't done the upper tub will drop down too far inside the lower tub and the inner lower tub, when it starts to spin, will rub on the underside of the upper tub = cause the main drive belt to smoke and tub to "freeze up"

Spacers I used were simply 3 pieces of multi strand sheathed electrical wire 3/8" so that I could bend them down at an angle and put them out once clamp was in place. Wire pieces need to be about 4-5" long.

Assemble one bolt in clamp and thread around tub in CCW direction.

Position one bolt of the clamp in right rear corner. this is important so that when tub goes out of balance, there's clearance for the clamp bolts and they don't contact the cabinet.

Make sure before threading clamp arount tub that the screw that will end up in the front left corner has a hex head on it so that you can apply some clamping "muscle" with a socket wrench.

I had trouble getting the front left screw inserted in the clamp (its only 2" long) so I used a 3" bolt to make the preliminary connection to pull the clamp semi tight. I planned ahead and got a light wire coat hanger to use as a "tie-tie" in the event that I had to remove the 3" slotted screw to revert back to the 2" hex head screw. Luckily when I removed the 3" screw I was able to quickly pop the 2" hex head back in and tighten completely.

Before putting front cover on, do one load with front cover off to make sure that upper and lower/inner tub don't rub each other.

If ok, turn power back off and put front cover back on.

Note: Would advised ordering the rubber V-seal if you are ordreing the clamp. If you buy the seal there are four bolts in the lid that let you lift the lid to work on the tub, clamp and seal MUCH more easily. Sticky part is getting water fill tube in top left rear disconnected so that new rubber v-seal can slide over tub.

Note also that in order to get to front left lid bolt that single bolt holding diaphram onto front left upright must be removed so as the let diaphram assembly drop away to access front left lid bolt. The two bolts in the rear can be accessed from the top very easily. Also need to disconnect the bleach fill tube in order to lift the lid (right side lifts up to vertical position)