WSM2420SDZAA General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Our washing machine had gotten stuck in the agitation cycle several times....it wouldn't cycle out of either wash or rinse, and was clogged with suds. Turns out we were using the wrong detergent, one recommended only for front-loading high efficiency washers. I removed knobs and front panel, then the two screws holding the timer mechanism in. Although it looked nearly new, clearly it didn't work. The replacement part arrived in two days, and was easy to install.- 5 screws holding the panel, and 2 on the timer. tested the washer today, and it worked perfectly.

The agitator broke free while the washer was spinning and it shredded the plastic. All I had to do was remove a little top cap off the agitator by prying it up with a screwdriver, then replacing the cap on the new agitator. Viola! Done. Very easy!

The removal and installation were self-explanatory once the part was in hand. Because the unit is in a laundry closet off the bathroom, space was limited and we had to be creative. Hence, my son's Handy Manny tool set, Turner to be exact, was perfect for holding the ground wire bolt in place from behind the dryer lid so that we could loosen the nut on the inside of the dryer lid. Of course, when I went to put the nut back on the bolt after putting the new ground wire in place, I dropped the nut in the dryer. That's when our son's Harvey the train (a Thomas the Tank engine character) came in handy. My long arms and its magnet were just the thing to get the nut out of the abyss at the bottom of the washer cabinet.

I first remove the lid,there is the swicth them i disconnect the swicth from main connector,them replace. Easy

So, my washer wouldn't spin and I was relatively certain it was the lid switch - but accessing the lid switch wasn't completely straightforward. Most of the online videos show to take the front off - that's *not* how to do it on my model. Needed to take the top off the washer. Here's how:

First, you need access to the back of the washer, so if you have an open space, start there. If it's confined like mine, take the sheet metal off the slanted portion between the washer and the dryer by removing the two screws near the top and pulling the metal out front. That gives you access to the back where you need it.

If you haven't already shut off your power to your washer at your circuit breaker, go do that. If you can't do that, unplug the washer now.

Just behind the washer lid, in back, are two socket screws (aimed down). Those hold the hinges for the lid on. Remove those screws (careful not to drop them!) and pull them out front - if you can pull the metal from the hinges out front, that's good too because they might fall out otherwise and you need to retrieve them. With this done, you can push the lid toward the back, which will undo the plastic clips on the front that hold the lid up front.

From here, slooooowly lift the lid in the front - you'll see the lid switch is fortunately the only thing connecting the lid to the main body of the washer. Again, make sure the power is off to the washer, then unclip the electrical connection (I think it's a kind of molex connector?) that connects the lid switch to the rest of the power. Now you can remove the lid to another location to disconnect the switch. Remove two screws on the right hand side inside the normal lid area that hold the switch in place, then remove the screw that connect the ground wire to the back of the inside of the lid. Put in the new switch, which will snap into place and then you can attach the screws for it and the ground wire. You can pull the clips that hold the main electrical open to slide the new cable in by gently pushing under them with a flathead screwdriver.

Do everything else above in reverse, and you've replaced the lid switch!

Replaced the lid switch

Unplugged the all the power to unit turned off the water supply ,removed the drain hose from the stand pipe and disconnected the the dryer duct.
Placed a blanket under the unitd and pulled it out of the closet without marring the new tile floor. and tipped the unit placing a 2x2 underthe back and installed both new rear feet.

Took off front panel, removed side screws first (4) and plastic covers held by them. Released square springed latches on each side on top by pushing down each one and pulling panel out on top. Took of timer control knob by unscrewing it by hand counterclockwise and then pulled out the indicator (lined) circle. Removed 2 screws attaching timer to panel and one conector. Installed new timer and followed disassembly procedure in reverse to assemble. In 1/2 hour washer working again like new and some parts of the timer cycle that used to jump came to life again.

Shut off power to washer. Opened top of washer from holding clips to access switch cable. Removed two mounting screws holding switch. Disconnected ground wire. Disconnected cable connector. Removed cable from retaining clips. Installed new switch cable by first connecting ground wire; than connecting cable connector; than attaching two mounting screws and last mounting cable to retaining clips. Prior to closing washer top, put power back to washer and assured new switch functioned correctly. Shut off power again and closed washer top on to holding clips. Returned power and did a final check of switch function.