GUD27ESSJ0WW General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

Replace both micro switches.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

watched vidio from the site.just follow the instructions, And was able to fixed the problem.

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.