GTUP240GM2WW General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.

Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.

Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.

Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.

Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.

Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.

Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.

Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.

Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

Turned off gas and unplugged power. Removed gas line and vent tube. Removed the light bulb. Took the door off. Removed two screws from the top, inside part of the door jamb and removed the top, but not the control panel. Removed the front panel. I took a picture of the wiring that leads to the light to ensure proper reconnection. Unhooked the belt from the tension bar and removed the belt, then pulled the drum out. The cycling thermostat is held in place by 2 "wings" and pressure. Removed connections from old and installed on the new. Snapped the new cycling thermostat in place. Then reversed the order to reinstall everything. Drum, belt around drum then tensioner, connected light wiring, installed the front panel, ensuring proper alignment on the felt in the lower bearing. Installed the top and screwed it back on the front panel. Reinstalled door. Reinstalled the light bulb. Using NEW gas line plumbers tape, installed the gas hose. Installed the vent tube. Have done at least 10 loads of laundry with no problems.

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Wife was out of town, visiting family. I broke the door strike by wedging the dryer door between the laundry room door, closed the laundry room door and it snapped the door strike breaking it. I ordered the part, and it shipped fast using the standard shipping, nothing fancy. Grabbed a pair of pliers and pushed the new door strike into place. It snapped right in, fits and works perfect like nothing ever happened. The wife will never know :)

inserted the latch into the opening in the front face of the dryer

Take old grid slide and pannel off. Clean lint trap wire framework and replace. Make sure this trap frame fits snug against the door, otherwise it puts pressure on the new slide. This is the second time I have replaced this Grid Slide. Slid new pannel into grid frame. Ready to go.

Replaced with the new part that I ordered from partselect.The washer works good. Thank you.

it was easy, it clip right on.needed to give it a little tap to get it in .

Took unit practically apart to remove old parts and install new part. Unit is like new.

removed broken part and replaced it altogether.

Removed gas line. removed control panel, removed top, removed front, removed burner, replaced igniter, put back in. paused and played the video. very easy to do. 42 minutes and I had a few beers.

Good thing my husband is so handy. This part was very difficult to get to. Basically, he had to take apart almost the whole dryer. There is no access door so the side panel had to be removed, but before you could do that the front panel and door had to come off, then the top of the dryer. Keep track of the screws, we had a few leftover! But the dryer works great again and we hope to get several more years out of it. We've had no problems with it until now and it's over 15 yrs. old.

remove and replace.