GTUP240EM0WW General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

snapped in new latch

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

I went to You tube sight to see how I can remove front of washer so I could inspect inside and see if the problem was visible. A butter knife easily released the tabs that hold the front of washer on. My wife in the mean time found a you tube video that showed the same problem and I ordered the part right away. It showed just two screws and a plug that had to be removed. I always buy my parts from part-select because the quality and speedy delivery and tracking is great! This was an easy fix!

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Purchased spanner wrench for tub nut wouldn’t budge, impacted off. Then spin tub took 2days to get loose, lots of WD40 , also heated up center area, used a small sledgehammer head to hit a socket on the large part of the shaft . Had to take out outer tub to replace seal and support bearing unit.

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

If you're handy with a right angle grinder and a cutoff wheel, it can be done.

Order the washer hub, hub nut, and the spring washer above the hub nut.

Get the agitator out. a pair of flat bars and some hammering on the agitator retaining bolt helps a lot. Loosen the retaining nut a few turns, pry and hammer at the same time, repeat until he agitator comes out.

On the bottom of the tub assembly is a brown plastic bracket that holds the spin solenoid. Remove it before you dismount the tub assembly. It's easy to break, and it costs $65.

Dismount the tub assembly from the cabinet. Turn it over and remove the motor. Unbolt everything that can be unbolted. Cut away enough of the large metal plate that was bolted to the bottom of the tub so that the tub assembly will stand upright on a five gallon bucket.

Stand the tub assembly upright on the five gallon bucket. Cut away the hub nut. Try not to cut into the black steel disk on the bottom of the tub. Soak the metal parts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar. Slip a three foot long piece of 1 1/4 pipe or conduit over the stem that held the agitator. Hold the pipe upright. Drop a four foot long steel rod into the pipe. Use the steel rod as a slide hammer and whale away. Stop frequently to spray your penetrant, and keep hammering. Eventually you'll drive the old washer hub out of the drum. Remember, everything is plastic and not indestructible..

Before reassembly turn the tub over and clean up the mating surfaces, ditto the agitator. When reassembling use antisieze compound on the mating surfaces.

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.