FLSE72GCS0 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

-Remove front panel - 2 screws
-Remove the top panel - 2 screws
-Disconnect the lid switch from the top panel - 2 screws
-Remove the agitator cap - unscrew
-Remove the agitator - This was a bit difficult and required a lot of jiggling but it eventually came off
-Remove the inner drum - 5 bolts at the bottom
-Remove the drum mount - 2 bolts and then it got really difficult. A lot of penetrating blaster, wire brushing, jiggling, and some strategically placed hammer taps (don't damage the threads.
-Remove the seal
-Clean up the inner and outer seal seating surfaces
-Rinse and repeat in reverse (pun intended)

Removed drum replaced bearing with kit, replaced both front drum seals and drive belt. The only problem was when replacing the rear drum ball the three screw holes were poorly tapped and took several tries to get them in. The manufacturers could easily fix this problem. They could provide self tapping hex head screws instead of the Phillips head screws. Everything else went very smoothly.

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

filter inalled

Remove top lid by pushing tab on either side with a putty knife. Disconnect the 2 wire carriages on right. Remove one
phillips head screw on each side that holds front panel to dryer body. Remove front panel by using flat head screwdriver to pry panel from body. Remove thermostat located on bottom right attached to front of motor on a plastic body by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnect wires and place on new part.

Had to loosen drum and move it forward to get at switch. Didn’t have to remove belt.

The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installation for DIY. The new legs work great.

no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

I just popped up the top front using a large straight (slotted) screw driver, then removed the 2 screws at the bottom front, then the whole front panel popped down about a half inch to be lifted out of the way. I found the old drive belt way down under the motor (still attached as normal), very near the floor and removed the worn out belt by hand, and replaced it with the new belt by hand also. The spring loaded belt tightener- idler wheel makes this a very simple process to accomplish. Then, I replaced the front panel-- all done. Works like new.

First, I read the other posts and got a good idea as to how to do it. I needed to replace the upper felt and guides but decided to go ahead and replace the lower felt and the bearing holder as well. If I had been thinking I would have replaced the belt at the same time but, oh well.

Disconnect the electric plug from the wall.
Pop the top using a medium sized flat head screwdriver.
Disconnect the wiring harness at right front of the unit.
Remove the two screws near the top of the front panel and squeez the retaining clips. You may need a pair of pliers for this but be gentle.
Pull straight up on the front panel to remove it.
To get to the bearing holder, remove the drum by first removing the access panel located at the rear of the dryer and removing the belt from the springloaded plastic pulley. With no tension on the belt simply pull up on the drum while also pulling slightly forward. The drum will pop right out but you will have to apply some pressure. There is no need to remove the three screws at the back of the drum on the inside.
Once the drum is out, remove the two screws holding the bearing holder and remove the assembly being careful not to lose the single ball bearing at the rear of the assembly. Pay attention as to how the assembly goes together.
Scrape off the old felt and glue. Like everyone else, I used a chisle and some GOOP. The old felt came right off with little effort and the GOOP cleaned off the old glue with not too much effort.
Apply the glue that comes with the felt glides according to the instructions on the tube. There's plenty to do both upper and lower felt in that tube. I used some spring clamps to firmly set the upper felt. The glue sets in just a few minutes. The lower felt has a bevelled edge that goes toward the door and fits into a groove on the panel. Once the glue is set you you are ready to put it back together. Like everyone else, I took the time to vacuum out the interior of the dryer and collect the coins and buttons that had accumulated. I found it very easy to reinstall the bearing holder assembly by myself by working from the side of the dryer. I put a dab of grease on the single ball bearing to hold it in place while I reinstalled the assembly. Put some grease in the bearing holder and reinstall the drum, then the front panel and belt. Put the belt back on the tensioner and take care of the couple of lose end and you're done.

This is a "no big deal" repair that looks worse than it is. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete and I was taking my time and just enjoying the fact that I was doing it myself.

As instructed by a Frigidaire Video for a Laundry Center: FIRST disconnect the power I then removed the access panel, Safety Shield was missing (previous Serviceman never replaced), Entire door assembly and the top cover. Doing this exposed the entire Drum and made installation VERY easy. Always research your job as there are many reliable videos instructions available, it takes the fear and guess work out and leaves only confidence ahead. I am 63 yrs old and if I can attempt this anyone can!

I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.

This is a washer/ dryer combo unit. Start at the top of the unit. Remove top plate then remove cover between dryer and washer. Remove control panel. Now remove front panel with dryer door. Unplug harness connector. With area now open put on new belt around drum and motor. Be sure you put belt around idler pulley correct way so there is tension on belt. Put back together in reverse order. Took me about 40 minutes since I cleaned and vacuumed out appliance.

The loud noise was present only while using the dryer of my washer/dryer combo unit. I traced the noise down to the rear center of the dryer and I noticed that the noise would stop or be quieter if I pushed on this area with my hand while the dryer was running. I realized there must be some type of bearing supporting the weight of the dryer drum while allowing it to rotate. I did a Google search for parts on my model # and found Parts Select. I used the parts diagrams to figure out what parts were the likely problem. I found the rear bearing part# and watched the very helpful video showing how to replace it.

I removed the drum on my dryer and found the bearing and socket to be completely dry (no grease) and showing a lot of wear. The dryer heat element surrounds the bearing so I think 10 years of use had dried up all the grease. I purchased the bearing kit so I swapped out the old parts for everything in the kit. I also noticed the drum belt was split in places and little black dots all over the inside of the drum area were small pieces of the belt. I replaced the belt and took the opportunity to vacuum the drum area because it was covered with 10 years of lint. The bearing replacement video was extremely helpful and I was able to replace parts easily even though I had a different dryer than in the video. My dryer is much quieter now and I didn't have any screws left over!! I will definitely shop Parts Select again!!

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.