FFLG1011MW1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I ordered pump so I would have it on hand. I didn’t want the washer in pieces waiting on parts. New pump came in 2-3 days with standard shipping. Found a video online for this model. Removed top. Removed control panel and set on front edge of frame. Removed door seal spring. Removed front panel and separated seal from drum. Pump located at bottom left. Removed pump screws. Got a shallow pan from kitchen to catch water. Removed hoses and trap. Not much water. Took trap boot and pump to sink for cleaning and found a bra wire had made it past the screen and was rubbing on pump impeller. That was the noise. Cleaned and reinstalled old pump. Has been running for 2 months without a problem. Easily returned the new pump! Highly recommend this company and site. Will come here for my repair jobs first. Hope I remembered all the steps correctly since it has been over 2 months.

The repair requires the front panel to be removed. First remove the top by removing two screws in the back of the top panel. Once the top is removed, you have access to all of fasteners for the front panel. I removed the control panel to give myself more room. Simply remove the wire connectors on the panel and two connectors in the upper right of the cabinet. There are four screws that hold the front panel on, two on the inside about a third from the top and two more on the outside at the very bottom. Once the screws are removed, pry the front panel from the machine since there are spring clips holding the panel to the machine. Once the front panel is removed, you have access to the guides and the felts.

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

Before this fix which worked beautifully, I tried replacing the flame sensor which did not work. To read that story, search under part number PS459818 (Flame Sensor). Our model is a Westinghouse, so access to the unit is a bit different than the other stories. It's a stacked front-loader sitting on top of a washing machine.

1. Open the little front door (lower left side) by unscrewing the little screw right below it. The door will pivot and slide out vertically.
2. Disconnect the electrical main lead coming from the back of the unit (just in case).
3. Close the gas switch lever on main gas pipe coming from the back on left side (just in case).
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on top of the metal bracket holding the two coils. The screws have to be removed completely along with the bracket. It's easy, they are right in front and there is room for the screwdriver. Use a thin long one instead of one with multiple bits to better align with the screws, which are very close to the coils.
3. The two coils slide right out and are very different so it's easy to keep them straight. Remove electrical connectors before or after removing the coils (I marked the plastic on top with a sharpie to keep them in the right orientation).
4. Drop in the two new coils and reconnect them to the electrical leads.
5. Reconnect main electrical lead from back (match wire colors)
6. Reopen gas lever on gas pipe.
7. Drop in front cover at an angle, tilt vertically and put screw back underneath. Use magnetized screwdriver or a piece of scotch tape to hold the screw or it might fall off the screwdriver.
8. Voila'. It worked.

This website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fix it's just like new. In 1994 we used parts bought here to fix our washing machine (Westinghouse LT350RXW1). That machine is now 15 years old and still going!

I definitely would not have tried to do this had it not been for the other testimonials written here. But it sounded so easy, I had to just try it (the repair man estimated that with parts and labor, we would be looking at somewhere between $250 and $300!).

The repair itself took less than 15 min, but I spend a good deal of time looking around the garage for a few screwdrivers and my socket set (me and tools don't meet too often). I could simply pry up the top cover on the dryer with my hands, then got it all the way up after removing two screws from the lint trap and undoing this really annoying wire connector thing. From there the front panel lifted off. To remove the drum, just had to release the tensonier on the belt, and it came right out. From this point it was really obvious where the replacement parts would be going. A few screws later, and I could swap the parts, and put humpty dumpty back together again.

It works!!!

Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.

The striker is attached with two Phillips screws. All you do is unscrew the broken one and screw on the new one, and you have saved yourself from an expensive service call.

Placed new lint filter in proper slot.

Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.