GLGH1642DS1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.

I removed the broken knob from the metal shaft with a pair of pliers and slid the new knob in place.

Piece of cake!

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.

First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

First thought the problem was with the spin cycle, however it soon became clear it was the pump that wasn't draining the water that kept the spin cycle from doing it's thing. After hand-wringing a large load and shopvacing out the remaining water, I ordered the new pump, got it in two days, and did a quick change out and it works perfectly. During the removal of the rubber boot that connects the tub to the pump, the one thing I did discover was a yucky buildup of years of fabric softener which I couldn't break my wife from using. But, after showing, and more importantly, letting her SMELL the fungus/mildew in the sludge, I've finally broken her of the habit! Best bang for the repair buck so far.

Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!

Unpluged the dryer, took out the light assembly, unpluged the wires to the unit, replaced the old unit with new unit from Partselect.
Plugged dryer in, problem fixed.
Taa Daa

Thanks, PARTSELECT.

That saved me about $50.00 YAHOO!!

watched video on replacing rear bearing.although rear bearing was not the part(s) i needed to replace, video instructed disassembly procedures to get to the drum glides. this was a very simple and easy to follow video. repair was a breezeand took roughly 25 minutes. the most time consuming segement of repair was vaccuuming out lint,that was 15 minutes. In future, as a preventative, i plan to remove front of machine to clean annually.
Thank you.

first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.

Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.

2 screws and about 48 seconds of work. very easy.