SFLG3911RW1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in

This link provides clear simple instructions which I was able to use successfully.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

Followed directions of another website...had to replace ball and socket joint that attached the drum to the back frame of the dryer...removed top outside metal cover of dryer to facilitate attaching ball/socket kit to the drum...this allowed us to secure the ball/socket kit to the drum without cross threading the screws...with the top of dryer removed this allows you to lift the drum to fit into the plastic bracket...dryer had been in use for over ten years before repair...extreme amount of lint debris throughout internal area of dryer...lint was everywhere...spent a large amount of time vacuuming lint...duct connection from lint trap to lint fan/impeller was very loose and over the years lint seeped out from connection...suggest using duct tape or wood/composite shims to hold the lint duct to the fan/impeller...make sure you remove lint from the back of drum crevice and around the area of the heating element for electric dryers...for sanity's sake this should be a two person job...for this repair we replaced the upper and lower drum felt strip, installed a complete and new ball/socket kit, replaced drum belt, and vacuumed and damp wiped the entire interior of the dryer...

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

I replaced the rear bearing assy. Thanks to all that sent in there stories. very helpful. But my problem was the breaker in breaker box. needless to say "check your outlet for proper voltage.First,before anything else." i had a bad breaker, had it replaced,with proper 30amp fuses.Dryer works fantastic..Thanks to all again for your input. Great Website...

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

pulled appliance away from wall and unplugged the electrical cord and then used putty knife to pop up the top. Then removed the screws that held the front in place. Disconnected the wire to the switch on the door and then front on a rug and used acetone and scraper to remove the old glue and felt. Cleaned the area thoroughly and apply the glue that come with the kit an give it a couple of seconds to get tacky and then applied the felt and used clothes pins to hold in place for about an hour and then put back together and let it set over night before using. Had good success and it solved my problem.

As others have described in more detail... I lifted the top, removed the 2 screws holding the front panel (one on each side, inside the control panel on either side - not the easiest to get at, but not too bad), popped the clips holding the front panel in place and removed it. With the front panel off, the location of the coils is obvious (lower left side). The only challenging aspect of this repair is that the 2 screws holding the coils in place are really torqued in so it was crucial to use the exactly correct size screwdriver and not let the screwdriver slip while unscrewing those screws. Actually swapping out the coils took seconds, of course they have to go in exactly the same way as the old ones. I did take a few minutes extra to vacuum out years of lint from the inside of the dryer. Overall, much easier and cheaper than I was expecting and now I know where everything is inside the cabinet.

I took the dryer apart to vacuum and check because of the screaching noise. Took drum out and found the bearing in pieces and shaft had rubbed against the brace. I thought as old as my dryer was I would never get a piece to fix it. I got online and found PartSelect.com. I found the part but could not tell if all was included. there was a Phone Number so I called it. I was helped instantly. They acted like it was no big deal to have a dryer that old. I got my part within a week and had my dryer back together. It works like new. Thank you

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

I attempted to figure it out first but to no avail. Found an article on e-how and followed the steps to access the drum. Found your company on internet and called the 800 number to order the part. Delivery was quick (2 days) and it was the exact part. Thank you.

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.