SFLG4033RT1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Lewis from Thornton, CO
- Parts Used:
- 131825900
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
loud squeeling noise
After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.
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- Customer:
- Carol from COLUMBUS, WI
- Parts Used:
- 5304516871
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lint screen had holes
took out the old one and put in the new one
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- Customer:
- Christopher from MEDFORD, MA
- Parts Used:
- 5304517325
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
No flame, no heat
I recently ordered parts for a gas dryer, Frigidaire GLGQ2152 ES3. When I received an igniter part number PS12585650 order number 14700077, the igniter was broken when I opened the box. I believe what happened is that the new metal bracket was wrapped in the bubble wrap along with the igniter. I called customer service and was setup to return the igniter which I did. Also, I ordered a second igniter. I receive the second one and it wasn't broken and the bracket was outside the bubble wrap during shipment.
As far as the installation of the "replacement" igniter into the gas dryer, I could not find instructions on how to install it. The received igniter is much different than the original. There was a small instruction sheet stating that the new igniter is different but can be installed using the new bracket that came with the igniter. But again there were no instructions on how to do this. It took me great effort to figure out how to do this.
The old igniter had to be removed by removing the old bracket assembly that the igniter was mounted on. The new igniter had to be installed onto the new bracket and then by sliding the new assembly under the old assembly, the screws were reinstalled. Although the holes where the original screws were to be screwed into were too small, they had to be drilled out. There was no hardware (screws) to install the "replacement" igniter onto the shipped bracket.
After much work, I finally got the new igniter installed (without breaking it) with the new bracket and the dryer is back in operation.
As far as the installation of the "replacement" igniter into the gas dryer, I could not find instructions on how to install it. The received igniter is much different than the original. There was a small instruction sheet stating that the new igniter is different but can be installed using the new bracket that came with the igniter. But again there were no instructions on how to do this. It took me great effort to figure out how to do this.
The old igniter had to be removed by removing the old bracket assembly that the igniter was mounted on. The new igniter had to be installed onto the new bracket and then by sliding the new assembly under the old assembly, the screws were reinstalled. Although the holes where the original screws were to be screwed into were too small, they had to be drilled out. There was no hardware (screws) to install the "replacement" igniter onto the shipped bracket.
After much work, I finally got the new igniter installed (without breaking it) with the new bracket and the dryer is back in operation.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from MAYODAN, NC
- Parts Used:
- 137292700
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The drive belt snapped due to age
Removed front and back panels as well as the dryer front, placed belt on drum and drive motor. I found that taking the door off the dryer front made the reassembly much easer.
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- Customer:
- Allan D from REDLANDS, CA
- Parts Used:
- 137551901
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
the attached anchors and holes linled up about 80% of the time.
I cut off the four that didn't line up - I suppose since this was a gasket that fit several makes, I should expect this type of problem.
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- Customer:
- Eileen from SHERIDAN, CA
- Parts Used:
- 137513300
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Glide was broken
I watched the video on the repair and followed it. Super easy. Repair only took 30 mins. Please note there are 2 glides. Make sure to order 2.
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- Customer:
- ANGEL from MIAMI, FL
- Parts Used:
- 5304516871
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
LINT FILTER
JUST DROP IT IN WOOOOLA
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- Customer:
- Robert from CUMMING, GA
- Parts Used:
- 134222900
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Top hinge on clothes dryer separated, leaving door difficult to open/close
Ordered part from partselect.com. Part was back ordered; however they were very proactive in communicating status updates! When it arrived it was simply a matter of removing door using a philips screwdriver, installing the new hinge and presto - job complete! Kudos to partselect.com ??
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- Customer:
- Michael from DUNN, NC
- Parts Used:
- 5304516871
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dryer lint filter was all torn up after 12 years of use.
Simple: I ordered the part from you then took out the old old and inserted the new one. Took all of 1 minutes
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- Customer:
- Bruce from madison, OH
- Parts Used:
- 5303931775
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The clothes were not getting dry, no matter how long they ran
The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.
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Drum belt and bearing needed to be replaced.
Unplugged dryer, removed access panel on the back of dryer. Removed access panel on the front of the dryer. Removed the front panel of the dryer. Inside the drum, removed the three screws on the center bearings. Slide the bearing out of the bearing support. Replaced the bearing support. Then reassembled the drum. Replaced the belt an reassembled the dryer. Two people would be recommended for reassembly.
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- Customer:
- John from MOUNTAIN CITY, TN
- Parts Used:
- 137292700
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer Drum not turning
I found a you tube video that walked me thru the steps. Only problem encountered was 2 screws which were different and a little difficult, but became obvious as the control panel wouldn't loosen as video suggested. Otherwise the repair was fairly easy, and VERY SATISFYING.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Olmsted, IL
- Parts Used:
- 134587700
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer not heating
Very slowly and carefully, you tube videos and schematic very helpful.
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- Customer:
- Troy from ROYALTON, MN
- Parts Used:
- 5303937182, 131825900
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
dryer had vibration after couple minutes of running
i read reviews and finally found a person that replace the motor, rear bearing, front top glides, and tension arm/pulley.. i had cleaned the fan motor with a tooth brush best i could the 1 time i had it apart. after the 4th time apart and reading a different review that said replace the fan motor housing/fan. i did and noise gone.
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- Customer:
- George from Bozeman, MT
- Parts Used:
- 5303281153
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Very loud squeak
First I unplugged the dryer. Then I gently pryed the top of the dryer. This was done from the front using a flat screw driver. Do this gently pushing up on the handle of the tool. It will pop up one side at a time. No need to remove the screws and clips on the the rear top of the dryer. Set the top aside. Then from the inside front of the dryer using a phillips screw driver I removed two screws, one on each side. This allowed me to lift the front of the dryer up and away from the unit, off the two clips on the bottom front of the unit. I set the front cover on top of the dryer. There is no need to disconnect any wires. Next removed the rear vented cover on the back of the dryer so I could acess the belt pullies. From here I pushed the upper left pully to the right to ease belt tension and take the belt off that pully. Slide the belt to the rear of the drum. Next I removed the three screws from the center most part of the inside of the dryer drum. My dryer required the use of a square head driver tool. This allowed me to easily bring the dryer drum out the front of the unit. Set it out of your way. Then I vacuumed the dust out of the dryer. Then I lifted out the metal part that resembles a trailer hitch which had been attached to the dryer drum. Next using a nut driver I removed the two screws which hold the white plastic part of the bearing assembly to the rear of the dryer. That is all the taking apart work.
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!
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