FFLG4033QT1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"

I attempted to figure it out first but to no avail. Found an article on e-how and followed the steps to access the drum. Found your company on internet and called the 800 number to order the part. Delivery was quick (2 days) and it was the exact part. Thank you.

First I unplugged the dryer. Then I gently pryed the top of the dryer. This was done from the front using a flat screw driver. Do this gently pushing up on the handle of the tool. It will pop up one side at a time. No need to remove the screws and clips on the the rear top of the dryer. Set the top aside. Then from the inside front of the dryer using a phillips screw driver I removed two screws, one on each side. This allowed me to lift the front of the dryer up and away from the unit, off the two clips on the bottom front of the unit. I set the front cover on top of the dryer. There is no need to disconnect any wires. Next removed the rear vented cover on the back of the dryer so I could acess the belt pullies. From here I pushed the upper left pully to the right to ease belt tension and take the belt off that pully. Slide the belt to the rear of the drum. Next I removed the three screws from the center most part of the inside of the dryer drum. My dryer required the use of a square head driver tool. This allowed me to easily bring the dryer drum out the front of the unit. Set it out of your way. Then I vacuumed the dust out of the dryer. Then I lifted out the metal part that resembles a trailer hitch which had been attached to the dryer drum. Next using a nut driver I removed the two screws which hold the white plastic part of the bearing assembly to the rear of the dryer. That is all the taking apart work.
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!

I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado

Unplugged dryer, removed access panel on the back of dryer. Removed access panel on the front of the dryer. Removed the front panel of the dryer. Inside the drum, removed the three screws on the center bearings. Slide the bearing out of the bearing support. Replaced the bearing support. Then reassembled the drum. Replaced the belt an reassembled the dryer. Two people would be recommended for reassembly.

Followed directions of another website...had to replace ball and socket joint that attached the drum to the back frame of the dryer...removed top outside metal cover of dryer to facilitate attaching ball/socket kit to the drum...this allowed us to secure the ball/socket kit to the drum without cross threading the screws...with the top of dryer removed this allows you to lift the drum to fit into the plastic bracket...dryer had been in use for over ten years before repair...extreme amount of lint debris throughout internal area of dryer...lint was everywhere...spent a large amount of time vacuuming lint...duct connection from lint trap to lint fan/impeller was very loose and over the years lint seeped out from connection...suggest using duct tape or wood/composite shims to hold the lint duct to the fan/impeller...make sure you remove lint from the back of drum crevice and around the area of the heating element for electric dryers...for sanity's sake this should be a two person job...for this repair we replaced the upper and lower drum felt strip, installed a complete and new ball/socket kit, replaced drum belt, and vacuumed and damp wiped the entire interior of the dryer...

I recently ordered parts for a gas dryer, Frigidaire GLGQ2152 ES3. When I received an igniter part number PS12585650 order number 14700077, the igniter was broken when I opened the box. I believe what happened is that the new metal bracket was wrapped in the bubble wrap along with the igniter. I called customer service and was setup to return the igniter which I did. Also, I ordered a second igniter. I receive the second one and it wasn't broken and the bracket was outside the bubble wrap during shipment.

As far as the installation of the "replacement" igniter into the gas dryer, I could not find instructions on how to install it. The received igniter is much different than the original. There was a small instruction sheet stating that the new igniter is different but can be installed using the new bracket that came with the igniter. But again there were no instructions on how to do this. It took me great effort to figure out how to do this.

The old igniter had to be removed by removing the old bracket assembly that the igniter was mounted on. The new igniter had to be installed onto the new bracket and then by sliding the new assembly under the old assembly, the screws were reinstalled. Although the holes where the original screws were to be screwed into were too small, they had to be drilled out. There was no hardware (screws) to install the "replacement" igniter onto the shipped bracket.

After much work, I finally got the new igniter installed (without breaking it) with the new bracket and the dryer is back in operation.

Removed front and back panels as well as the dryer front, placed belt on drum and drive motor. I found that taking the door off the dryer front made the reassembly much easer.

Open the top of the dryer. Removed the broken belt and replaced it with the new one I purchased from your company.

Disconnect from electric and water supply, and move appliance to an area where you can access front, rear, and top of dryer. On rear of dryer remove the 2 screws on the small square panel, remove panel to expose dryer motor and tensioner pulley. On top of dryer remove the 4 front screws, but not the center screw, it is not necessary as it is holding something on the inside. Open dryer door and remove the lint trap, exposing the vent. Remove the 2 plastic snaps using a flat screwdriver. This will disconnect the vent from the front panel. Next remove the 2 small screws on top sides of the control panel. Remove the 2 screws on angled back panel, and remove panel. Remove approx. 10 more screws holding the under panel on, and on the bottom of control panel. Remove under panel, and slide control panel up and pull out, disconnect electrical connection on left side. Remove front off of dryer carefully, the weight of the drum is holding it in place. Vacuum everything, remove broken belt, put new belt on drum, rib side down, and slide all the way back all around. Go to rear of dryer and remove tensioner arm off of its post, there is a slot to do so, put belt on motor pulley, reapply tensioner arm in position so belt goes around it. Spin the drum a few times by pulling on the belt to make sure there are no twists. Place the front of dryer back on, put two corner screws in the top, and reseat the drum. Reconnect the electrical connection inside dryer you disconnected earlier, plug in dryer, and turn on to test. If it heats and turns well done, if not good luck. Unplug, slide vent back in, reinstall plastic clips, and ensure that vent is seated in the foam pad on the exhaust motor vent. Work backwards and put panels back in place with screws. Job done.

I first diagnosed the problem using a Google search. Amazing how many hits I got and after reading a few was pretty certain what the cause was and what parts I probably needed to make the repair.
Some of the articles I read had links or mentioned PartSelect, so I searched for my model # and found the parts I would probably need. Knowing that I could probably get the parts I needed I disassembled the dryer (pretty easy really) and removed the old suspect part. It was devoid of lubricant and the bearing and ball showed some wear so I ordered the Bearing Assembly suggested by PartSelect (the illustrations looked just like my old parts). I left the dryer disassembled while I waited for the part, figuring it would take a week or so to arrive.
Much to my surprise, the part arrived three days later and after cleaning the dryer innards of all collected lint I put it all back together in 30 minutes.
So for a little research, a $30 part, and about an hour of my time, I have a clean and quiet operating dryer. I see no reason I can't get another 10 or so years out of it.
I consider myself a reasonably handy guy but had never worked on a dryer before. I'll be unlikely to ever call a repairman without first doing some investigation and seeing if the parts are available. With the internet and PartSelect I think I could take on a lot of other repairs I'm not familiar with. Thanks for a great outcome this time around.
Kevin

removed the old gasket with pliers (noting where the beginning/end of the gasket was) then installed new gasket in the exact location with very light pressure on each rubber insert point. Voila!!

just changed filter