FFLG1011MW3 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Disconect power, Removed top and front of dryer.
The broken zipper was easly removed at this point. The plastic glides easly snap out and in. The felt took some more time to scrape off and clean the old glue. Glue the new felt into place and replace front and top. The parts were shiped promptly and the dryer was out of service for only three days.

lifted the top panel, there were 2 screws to remove the front panel, then the coils were right there on the bottom left side. a screw or two hold the coils inplace. Then just unplug the old coils and plug in to the new coils.

removed top and front panel on stackable dyer unit. 3 screws at back of the inside of the drum, and the drum was out. installed new bearing and belt and all was good.

I made my job difficult by removing the back panel, then the side, and finally discovered the front panel opens giving access to the washer. Using heavy pliers I removed the spring clamps and replaced the pump to washer hose and the other hose end to the tub. Turned on the washer no leak only to discover the drain hose had developed a leak. So I ordered the second hose. I was not sure how to release the plastic retaining clamps. Finally just yanked them loose, which worked. Ran the hose through the machine out the back into the drain pipe. I was able to reattach the retaining clamps put the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. The difficult part was getting the back, sides and front of the washing machine together that took hours.

Customer responses / directions were great nothing to add - except no where does anyone mention "high temperature grease" for the Drum Support Bearing - only on the video is it mentioned numerous times. I honestly think it took longer to vacuum out all the lint then it did to do the repairs.

remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

Previous comments on line were so helpful.

My husband and son took the dryer apart by removing the top in order to get to the drum. Part of silver rim that the Drum Glide is attached to was broken,it had been cut somehow. They had to soder it back in place so they could attach the Drum Glide and so far it's working.

Felt- I just ordered one with the adhesive and removed the damaged section used a wire brush, applied the adhesive ( which was more than enough) waited a few minutes for the adhesive to set, applied the felt, attached binder clips to hold it in place while working on the Drum Glide. Really easy.

Be carful when unpacking, the grounding bearing is in loose with the bolts. I had to chase it. Follow the video instructions for the stacked washer/dryer combo and you will not have a problem. Recommend you have two people working to lift the drum out and to install the new bearing.

Checked PartSelect online for people with a. similar problem. Found most common problem was the coils.
I opened the top, removed the two screws holding the front panel, unclipped the wiring harness from the machine to the door and removed/cut the plastic wire tie and front came off easily. I put the front piece to the side after changing the light bulb. I cleaned out a large amount of lint and found the coils on the left hand side without trouble. Carefully disconnected the wiring clips, unscrewed the holding screw and removed the old coils. Installed the new colis, 1 has three prongs and the other has 2 so you ca'nt mix them up. Replaced the hold screw, re-connected the witing harness, installed a new wire tie, and re-stalled the two holding screws. Closed the cover and turned it on.
At first it did not heat up which was dissappointing; but then I left it alone and 15 minutes later it worked like new! And heated up just fine ever since.

Total cost about $35.00 with shipping. I took a chance that I would not need the sensor or the ignitor based on the comments of others and I just bought the coils. If I had to do it over I would have bought all three and saved on the shipping.

Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.

Remove front lower access panel: two phillips screws at the lower edge then the panel slid down and off. Removed 5/16 pump mounting screws then slid a shallow pan under pump to attempt to catch stale water, removed left side (inlet) hose clamp and wiggled hose off to drain water with some success, some spillage. Removed outlet hose, turned the pump around to remove electrical connection. Reversed steps to mount new pump and after fighting with spring clamp on outlet side I chose to replace that spring clamp with a 1 1/2" stainless hose clamp which then could be tightened with a screwdriver and only took a minute to wrap up.