CFLE1011MW0 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

This is a washer/ dryer combo unit. Start at the top of the unit. Remove top plate then remove cover between dryer and washer. Remove control panel. Now remove front panel with dryer door. Unplug harness connector. With area now open put on new belt around drum and motor. Be sure you put belt around idler pulley correct way so there is tension on belt. Put back together in reverse order. Took me about 40 minutes since I cleaned and vacuumed out appliance.

As instructed by a Frigidaire Video for a Laundry Center: FIRST disconnect the power I then removed the access panel, Safety Shield was missing (previous Serviceman never replaced), Entire door assembly and the top cover. Doing this exposed the entire Drum and made installation VERY easy. Always research your job as there are many reliable videos instructions available, it takes the fear and guess work out and leaves only confidence ahead. I am 63 yrs old and if I can attempt this anyone can!

I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.

Placed new lint filter in proper slot.

After lifting the dryer top and finding the location of the thermal limiter on the back of the dryer, where it is difficult to get at, I carefully cut through the dryer cabinet with the multimaster on three sides to form a 'flap' upon which the limiter was mounted. By prying this flap open from the back, the two wires and two screws are easily accessible to replace the limiter, without having to remove the whole drum. Afterwards, I just bent the flap back into place and taped the seams. If it ever blows again, the fix will take all of about two minutes.

UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.

Order the Bearing Kit and Belt. All the necessary parts are included. I used them all and everything fit perfect. For the stack unit have a step stool to reach the screws on top. Remove the top screws. Remove the front panel and door assembly. Be sure to disconnect the electrical connector behind the control panel before you pull out the door assembly. Remove the belt. Pop up the dryer drum and remove. Replace all the bearing parts with new in the kit. Hang the new belt around the drum and reinstall the drum. Connect the belt using the access panel on rear of unit. Reinstall the front panel, door assembly and top panel. A helper to install the new drum bearing bracket is handy.

Followed directions of another website...had to replace ball and socket joint that attached the drum to the back frame of the dryer...removed top outside metal cover of dryer to facilitate attaching ball/socket kit to the drum...this allowed us to secure the ball/socket kit to the drum without cross threading the screws...with the top of dryer removed this allows you to lift the drum to fit into the plastic bracket...dryer had been in use for over ten years before repair...extreme amount of lint debris throughout internal area of dryer...lint was everywhere...spent a large amount of time vacuuming lint...duct connection from lint trap to lint fan/impeller was very loose and over the years lint seeped out from connection...suggest using duct tape or wood/composite shims to hold the lint duct to the fan/impeller...make sure you remove lint from the back of drum crevice and around the area of the heating element for electric dryers...for sanity's sake this should be a two person job...for this repair we replaced the upper and lower drum felt strip, installed a complete and new ball/socket kit, replaced drum belt, and vacuumed and damp wiped the entire interior of the dryer...

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in

Opened top, removed front cover, removed belt, took out drum, replaced bearing on drum and bearing guide on back of dryer. Reinstalled drum and belt, then replaced drum glides and upper felt,let glue set with clamps over night.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

pulled appliance away from wall and unplugged the electrical cord and then used putty knife to pop up the top. Then removed the screws that held the front in place. Disconnected the wire to the switch on the door and then front on a rug and used acetone and scraper to remove the old glue and felt. Cleaned the area thoroughly and apply the glue that come with the kit an give it a couple of seconds to get tacky and then applied the felt and used clothes pins to hold in place for about an hour and then put back together and let it set over night before using. Had good success and it solved my problem.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine