LCG751LL2 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.

Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.

thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!

bonnie J.

I used a screwdriver to remove the front of the washing machine, fit the belt around the main pulley, held in the spring loaded tension pulley, and threaded the belt aound. It works great! I really need this inexpensive repair, since my job was downsized, and I can't afford to pay anyone.

I followed the written instructions that came with the kit. They were relatively straight forward. Had problems getting the burner unit out.
Had to disconnect from 4" tube and disconnect all wiring.
Kit came with parts not needed.
Only needed to replace orfice and regulator control.
Tight area to work in.

Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.

Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness.
You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum.
Remove the drive belt
Remove the drum.
You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back.
Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother
Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)

Re install everything back again. And you are done

Removed the front, door and all. Replaced both upper and lower seals and allowed glue to dry for 24 hours. Removed 3 screws attaching drum to pivot in rear. While drum was out, relubricated pivot seat and ball. Installed new drum which has been re-designed, has strip around entire lip now. Seals are different, so both have to be replaced with ones in kit, supplied tube of glue is not enough to do the job, so used gator glue. Had trouble installing the 3 screws that attach it to the pivot. Finally re-assembled entire front panel and replaced the door. Started the dryer and it worked as new.

After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.
I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.

I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.

I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.

First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

lifted the top panel, there were 2 screws to remove the front panel, then the coils were right there on the bottom left side. a screw or two hold the coils inplace. Then just unplug the old coils and plug in to the new coils.

I took off the front panel of the washer and placed the belt on the large tub wheel and then the smaller wheel. I placed the belt over the adjustable third wheel and turned the tub in order to get the belt all the way in the grooves. Thirty minutes max to replace. Thanks, my order was 100% satisfactory

Removed top,removed hose from inlet valve to washer,removed hot and cold inlet hoses and with phillips screwdriver removed water inlet valve assy and replaced. Reassembled and tested.

My order arrived 2 days after i ordered same. Excellent service from partselect, Thank You....

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!