LC120JW5 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Pulled out the machine. Disconnected water lines. Removed four screws attaching the top brackets. In rear of top panel. Slid top panel forward and clear of valve. Removed two wire harnesses. Removed two screws holding valve to the back panel. Pulled valve down and out. Removed outlet side line spring clamp with channel lock pliers and pulled hose off old valve. Installed outlet side hose and spring clamp onto new valve. Placed valve up into place and installed two screws. Installed two wiring harnesses. Replaced top lid. Replaced lid bracket screws. Re-attached water hoses and pushed the machine back into place.

Removed two screws that held top of washer in place. removed top of washer. Removed two screws that held water inlet alve in place. Removed clamp and outlet hose from old inlet valve.












































































Removed two screws hold wash machine cover in place. Removed cover. Unscrewed cold and hot water supply lines from old inlet valve. Removed two screws holding inlet valve in place. Removed clamp and hose from inlet outlet hose. Replaced inew inlet in reverse order.

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

I decided to replace the cycling thermostat. I disconnected power, used the putty knife to push back spring type retainers underneath the top and
lifted up the front edge of the top and pushed it upward to rest on the back hinges.
Next, I unscrewed two sheetmetal screws on the edges of the front panel.
Then I supported the front panel upward while releasing the push type spring clamps before pulling it forward off the drum. I was able to swing
the front panel open from the left side and gently open it while watching one wire that was connected to it from the right side.
Then I was able to take the terminals off the thermostat noting which way they were connected.
I unscrewed the two screws holding the thermostat to the fan housing and replaced it with a new one. I assembeled from the front panel bacwards. until the top was back down.
Upon testing the unit I found out that the problem was not the cycling thermostat.
I plan to investigate the timer circuit that the thermostat controls next.
One can take out the thermostat and test it for cycling by removing it and checking terminals with ohmmeter x1 range and heating and cooling it with a hairdryer. Meter will read zero when thermostat is cold and closed. It will read infinity
or high resistance when it is open and hot.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Quick google search brought me to this site, part was very easy to locate and purchase. The part was delivered within 5 days and 2 screws, 2 wires, 2 hoses, and 15 minutes later it was a done deal.

First unplug power cord and removed water hoses, then removed rear panel of machine. Shop-vac old debries out of machine Remove small spring holding belt tensioner pulley assembly. Remove hex key from motor shaft that connects to the pump. Use pliers to spin clamps out of way so you can then remove the (4) four bolts that hold pump to bottom of the motor, no need to remove other pump bolts. I used a straight screwdriver to pry the pump loose from the motor shaft to slip the old belt out of the machine. Put new belt on and reversed process for reassembly. :Note: Shop vac up water that leaks out of pump when you remove the 4 bolts, also wipe down pump so you can check for leaks after tightening pump back onto motor.

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

It took longer to remove and then replace the back of the washer than to replace the water inlet valve. The video made it look easy and it was!. For the next perso: remember that if the water valve springs a leak and the washer has water in it, turn the dial to spin and the water will leave the drum. No need to siphon out the water.

I removed the back cover after disconnecting the electric and shutting off the water. I then proceeded to disconnect the water lines and then removed the water inlet valve by removing the two screws holding it in place. Then I used pliers to remove the hose leading to the washer. After that I did everything in reverse and was back in business. The video was very helpful and it made me feel comfortable with the procedure. I now know a little more about washers. Thanks for the excellent information.