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FEZ831AS1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

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All Instructions for the FEZ831AS1
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Customer:
James from Somerville, MA
Parts Used:
134418700
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Agitator Drive Block wore out
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!
68 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
dave from port sanilac, MI
Parts Used:
134736400, 134418700, 5303279394
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
bearing and seal at top of transmission went bad causing oil from transmission to stain clothes
I removed front and top of washer to get acess to the tub. removed cap to tub along with inner tub and agitator. the hardest part is removing the springs on the bottom and tilt it forward to get tub out. removed belt, pulley and bolts holding transmission in place. reassemble using silicone grease on seals and washers. works great now
56 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
CAROLE from MONTICELLO, AR
Parts Used:
131475320
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer still turned, but would not heat
Had to remove tub to get to rear wall to make the repair and then put it back together in reverse order.
53 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Steven from Jacksonville, IL
Parts Used:
134511600, 5308002385
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Worn belt, faulty snubber. Washing machine was 'walking' during spin cycle.
Unplugged machine.
Turned off water supply.

Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.

Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.

Used bent clothes hangar to remove old snubber ring, to protect my hands.

Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.

Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.

Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.
43 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
michael from jupiter, FL
Parts Used:
131475320, 3204267, 134120900
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
Had a professional do the install. He had difficulty aligning the cabinet so that it did not rub against the dryer drum. The parts you mailed me worked fine and resolved the problem. Thanks. Even having to pay the installer saved me 50% on the total job.
Installer unscrewed the screws on the upper panel, loosened the pulley holding the rubber drum cable, and pulled the drum up and out of the unit. With the rear heating element exposed, he unplugged the wire connections to the heating element, unscrewed the four screws holding the element to the rear panel and took the element out. Then he installed the new heating element by re-applying the four screws into the rear panel. He then replaced the thermal limiter which was directly at the right of the heating element by unplugging the wire connections to the thermal limiter and then unscrewing the thermal limiter from the rear panel. The process to install the new thermal limiter was the reverse process. He didn't install a new High Limit Thermostat because there was one attached to the new Heater. When all the new parts were installed, he reinstalled the drum by pushing the rear nub of the drum into the whole at the center of the heating plate. He then placed the rubber drum cable around the drum with the rough service facing the drum, placed the cable on the pulley and adjusted the tension of the cable with a screw driver. He then reinstalled the front panel by aligned the screw holes and reinserting and tightening the screws.
45 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Heath Harris from Arnold, MO
Parts Used:
134101800
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
washing machine will not drain or spin
removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!

fast shipping too! will recommend others!
41 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Paul from Holiday, FL
Parts Used:
134120900
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer overheated and stopped working
The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )
34 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Bruce from Seminole, FL
Parts Used:
5303207102, 131658800
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
Door Latch & Door Strike Broken On Dryer
I removed the broken door latch & strike with pliers. Then I pushed the new parts into place
41 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Molly from Washington, DC
Parts Used:
137292700
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Dryer wouldn't turn, but did make awful sound
Unplugged the washer/dryer combo unit from the wall.

Slid the unit forward on plastic bags until back and side were accessible (being careful of the dryer duct and washer water lines).

Removed the vented plate on the back to access the motor and idler arm using a LARGE-HEADED Phillips-head screwdriver.

Pulled out the broken belt.

Removed 10 of the 11 screws holding the top on (leave the center front one; undo the front corners last, taking care not to let the front panel slip forward — it supports the drum).

Opened the dryer door and gently pulled the front plate forward, supporting the drum from the inside with one hand so it didn't fall.

Worked the belt around the drum and between the front of the drum and the front panel. Held it mostly taut around the drum to slide it back to the existing belt mark. Grooved rubber side of the belt goes on the inside.

Pushed the front panel back into position while seating the drum on it. Temporarily attached the top with two back and two front screws. (The front panel overlaps the top; the top goes over everything else.)

Scratched my head trying to figure out how the belt goes around the motor shaft and idler arm; searched the web; searched the web some more.

Routed the belt left-to-right over the idler arm pulley, pushed the idler arm to the left, routed the belt around the motor shaft and then up over the drum.

The idler arm should (a) press on the OUTSIDE of the belt, (b) take up all the slack in the belt, and (c) not touch the motor shaft (touching it is what causes the awful noise). The belt should contact the motor shaft past the two nut-like things on the shaft (not between them).

Plugged the unit in and turned the dryer on to test it.

Replaced the other 8 top screws; replaced the vented plate on the back.

Wondered how I ever took having a clothes dryer for granted.
34 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michael from Springfield, VT
Parts Used:
5303279394
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer not spinning, water leaking out bottom
My first step was to download and print out the parts diagrams from the manufacturer's website. With a basic idea of what I needed to get to I first removed the agitator cap and the agitator and right off I found a broken bolt on plate lock bracket that holds trunnion which supports and connects the tub to the transmission drive shaft. I replaced the bolt and put it back together and gave it a test run. Spun very nicely now but water was going everywhere. Unfortunately I found that when the bolt broke the tub had slipped down and ripped the rubber "tub seal assembly". To get to the seal I ended up tearing the machine completely down and removing the whole motor and transmission assembly out of the unit. It may be possible to get at the seal without doing this but I'm not 100% sure. To get the whole unit apart I did the following: Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located at the very bottom of the panel and lifting up and out .Remove the top/lid by removing two screws underneath the top toward the front, and disconnecting lid switch, or i found it easier to just unscrew and remove it, then lift off the top/lid assembly. Remove the agitator cap and the agitator. Remove the splash cover (this is not easy- I popped each tab with a flat screw driver- the ones at the rear were very difficult). I tried to remove the fill spigot but could not get at one of the screws so getting the splash cover out was not as easy as it could have been. Remove the bolts in the bottom of the tub and lift it out. Unhook the drain hose and the level or "pressure tube". Remove the 3 large and 3 small springs from the motor assembly ( I needed a strong spring hook but all I had was vice grips, they work but it was not easy). remove any other wires etc. (mark things with tape and matching numbers if needed) and pull out the whole barrel and motor assembly. Unbolt the splash tub and remove, unbolt the trunnion and remove. And finally replace the seal. Reassemble in reverse order. Important!! Clean shaft well (I used some 300 grit fine sandpaper to remove the little bit of rust scale that had accumulated) and lubricate everything. be very careful when reassembling, as to not scuff up the seals at all. I used a silicone spray. This might not be the best thing for the job but I know at least not to use anything petroleum based such as WD-40 when you are lubricating rubber or plastic. Reinstalling the springs was very difficult and again a spring hook would have been great. Everything else went together reasonably easy. The unit works fine now. many thanks to the websites I researched to get this done.
29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Michelle from Dallas, TX
Parts Used:
131658800
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
My husband ruined the old latch by trying to shut the door too hard, and the old latch fell down into the inside of the dryer.
I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!
28 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Harry from Zephyrhills, FL
Parts Used:
137221600
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
The washer would not drain
After removing the front of the washer, I used slip joint pliers for the hose clamps, then a screwdriver for the mount bolts and replaced the pump motor in reverse order. The pump was ordered on line on a Friday before 10am and was delivered on saturday moring by FedEx. I could not have expected such fast and efficent service!
Great Job!!
24 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
William from York Springs, PA
Parts Used:
137221600
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
discharge of water out of wash machine
remove side panel & start rinse cycle & heard a grinding noise in discharge pump. used a bucket to catch water upon removeal of discharge hose to pump. unplug disconnect plug to motor, remove pump from unit. Discovered propeller was loose in housing. Googled Partselect.com, odered part & in 2 days later installed new pump on unit. Started a load of wash & it has been working perfect ever since. thanks to PartSelect.com for the service, the repair was minimal & easy for the DO IT YOURSELFER. Bill Starry
26 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jeffrey from Gulf Breeze, FL
Parts Used:
5304488479, 131476300
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
dryer squeeked and rattled
after removing the panel covering the dryer blower and removing the blower cover, i pulled the old blower wheel off and placed the new whell on carefully lining the flat edge of the wheel hole up with the flat edge on the blower piston, the n i placed the clamp on and put back all the housing covers and panels...and now my dryer runs quiet and drys cloths fast....thanks to partselect!!!!
26 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Marc from Malden, MA
Parts Used:
5304516871
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
My old lint filter had a few holes in it.
I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!
23 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the FEZ831AS1
16 - 30 of 440