FGX831CS1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I took off the front panel of the washer and placed the belt on the large tub wheel and then the smaller wheel. I placed the belt over the adjustable third wheel and turned the tub in order to get the belt all the way in the grooves. Thirty minutes max to replace. Thanks, my order was 100% satisfactory

lifted the top panel, there were 2 screws to remove the front panel, then the coils were right there on the bottom left side. a screw or two hold the coils inplace. Then just unplug the old coils and plug in to the new coils.

removed top and front panel on stackable dyer unit. 3 screws at back of the inside of the drum, and the drum was out. installed new bearing and belt and all was good.

I made my job difficult by removing the back panel, then the side, and finally discovered the front panel opens giving access to the washer. Using heavy pliers I removed the spring clamps and replaced the pump to washer hose and the other hose end to the tub. Turned on the washer no leak only to discover the drain hose had developed a leak. So I ordered the second hose. I was not sure how to release the plastic retaining clamps. Finally just yanked them loose, which worked. Ran the hose through the machine out the back into the drain pipe. I was able to reattach the retaining clamps put the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. The difficult part was getting the back, sides and front of the washing machine together that took hours.

Customer responses / directions were great nothing to add - except no where does anyone mention "high temperature grease" for the Drum Support Bearing - only on the video is it mentioned numerous times. I honestly think it took longer to vacuum out all the lint then it did to do the repairs.

remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..

i left my washer on its back till my belt came in and when it did all i had to do is slip the front off and go at it. it was really fast. then i put the front back on screwed in two screws and hooked up hoses and started washing everything went smooth till i was about to wash wash-n-wear and was like where is my other houseshoe and i remember my dog was bugging me while fixing my washer and dropped my house shoe and i already closed up front soi had to unhook everything and get that out, did not want it to catch on that belt i just bought and fixed lol thanks kristal cumpton

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

This repair is realy very easy
As discribed by the others

I read the last three peoples experiences when I ordered the part on your on line page. I had already made all the wrong mistakes taking the machine apart, and couldn't beleive how simplified it was on your web site. I had called a local repair shop only to be advised the part would take 4 days shipping and the price of it plus shipping was twice what I paid you. Your part arrived the day after I ordered it on line, Thanks again for being there!!!!!

Very easy to install. Unscrew 2 screws and I was done in minutes. Thanks for the fast part delivery!

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

Lifted lid/top of washer pulling straight up and removed front panel (2 screws at bottom). Removed old tub cover by prying tabs off the tub clips. Aligned new cover and seal over tub and pressed down to engage tabs with tub clips. Easy repair. Re-installed front panel and 2 screws, closed washer top by pressing down to engage the spring clips. I used anti-seize grease on the front panel screws and I used a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top/lid spring clips to make future removal easier(just in case.)

Tensioner (pulley spring) replacement.

The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.

With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain hose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.