LE400AXW1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.

The loud noise was present only while using the dryer of my washer/dryer combo unit. I traced the noise down to the rear center of the dryer and I noticed that the noise would stop or be quieter if I pushed on this area with my hand while the dryer was running. I realized there must be some type of bearing supporting the weight of the dryer drum while allowing it to rotate. I did a Google search for parts on my model # and found Parts Select. I used the parts diagrams to figure out what parts were the likely problem. I found the rear bearing part# and watched the very helpful video showing how to replace it.

I removed the drum on my dryer and found the bearing and socket to be completely dry (no grease) and showing a lot of wear. The dryer heat element surrounds the bearing so I think 10 years of use had dried up all the grease. I purchased the bearing kit so I swapped out the old parts for everything in the kit. I also noticed the drum belt was split in places and little black dots all over the inside of the drum area were small pieces of the belt. I replaced the belt and took the opportunity to vacuum the drum area because it was covered with 10 years of lint. The bearing replacement video was extremely helpful and I was able to replace parts easily even though I had a different dryer than in the video. My dryer is much quieter now and I didn't have any screws left over!! I will definitely shop Parts Select again!!

This is a washer/ dryer combo unit. Start at the top of the unit. Remove top plate then remove cover between dryer and washer. Remove control panel. Now remove front panel with dryer door. Unplug harness connector. With area now open put on new belt around drum and motor. Be sure you put belt around idler pulley correct way so there is tension on belt. Put back together in reverse order. Took me about 40 minutes since I cleaned and vacuumed out appliance.

The timing unit on the dryer no longer worked. I ordered a replacement timing unit which arrived in 3 days; followed instructions that came with the washer dryer combo and removed panels, replaced the timing unit and successfully tested. The installation of the replacement part took 35 minutes.

As instructed by a Frigidaire Video for a Laundry Center: FIRST disconnect the power I then removed the access panel, Safety Shield was missing (previous Serviceman never replaced), Entire door assembly and the top cover. Doing this exposed the entire Drum and made installation VERY easy. Always research your job as there are many reliable videos instructions available, it takes the fear and guess work out and leaves only confidence ahead. I am 63 yrs old and if I can attempt this anyone can!

Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!

After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

First unplugged the dryer took off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Scraped and cleaned old drum glide and lower basket seal. glued new seals on replaced lightbulb while I had it apart then reassembled. It was an easy job and the wife is now happy again.. Thanks to Partselect.
Mike

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.

Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.

Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.

I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.

This link provides clear simple instructions which I was able to use successfully.

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in