FLXE52RBS8 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Unplugged machine.
Turned off water supply.

Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.

Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.

Used bent clothes hangar to remove old snubber ring, to protect my hands.

Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.

Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.

Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.

Installer unscrewed the screws on the upper panel, loosened the pulley holding the rubber drum cable, and pulled the drum up and out of the unit. With the rear heating element exposed, he unplugged the wire connections to the heating element, unscrewed the four screws holding the element to the rear panel and took the element out. Then he installed the new heating element by re-applying the four screws into the rear panel. He then replaced the thermal limiter which was directly at the right of the heating element by unplugging the wire connections to the thermal limiter and then unscrewing the thermal limiter from the rear panel. The process to install the new thermal limiter was the reverse process. He didn't install a new High Limit Thermostat because there was one attached to the new Heater. When all the new parts were installed, he reinstalled the drum by pushing the rear nub of the drum into the whole at the center of the heating plate. He then placed the rubber drum cable around the drum with the rough service facing the drum, placed the cable on the pulley and adjusted the tension of the cable with a screw driver. He then reinstalled the front panel by aligned the screw holes and reinserting and tightening the screws.

removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!

fast shipping too! will recommend others!

The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

I removed the broken door latch & strike with pliers. Then I pushed the new parts into place

Unplugged the washer/dryer combo unit from the wall.

Slid the unit forward on plastic bags until back and side were accessible (being careful of the dryer duct and washer water lines).

Removed the vented plate on the back to access the motor and idler arm using a LARGE-HEADED Phillips-head screwdriver.

Pulled out the broken belt.

Removed 10 of the 11 screws holding the top on (leave the center front one; undo the front corners last, taking care not to let the front panel slip forward — it supports the drum).

Opened the dryer door and gently pulled the front plate forward, supporting the drum from the inside with one hand so it didn't fall.

Worked the belt around the drum and between the front of the drum and the front panel. Held it mostly taut around the drum to slide it back to the existing belt mark. Grooved rubber side of the belt goes on the inside.

Pushed the front panel back into position while seating the drum on it. Temporarily attached the top with two back and two front screws. (The front panel overlaps the top; the top goes over everything else.)

Scratched my head trying to figure out how the belt goes around the motor shaft and idler arm; searched the web; searched the web some more.

Routed the belt left-to-right over the idler arm pulley, pushed the idler arm to the left, routed the belt around the motor shaft and then up over the drum.

The idler arm should (a) press on the OUTSIDE of the belt, (b) take up all the slack in the belt, and (c) not touch the motor shaft (touching it is what causes the awful noise). The belt should contact the motor shaft past the two nut-like things on the shaft (not between them).

Plugged the unit in and turned the dryer on to test it.

Replaced the other 8 top screws; replaced the vented plate on the back.

Wondered how I ever took having a clothes dryer for granted.

This is the third time I have ordered parts from this company .I can't say enough good things about them from their fast shipping( always arrives sooner than they state)To the quality of the parts and the shipping packages.A first class operation from start to finnish.First step was to disconect power supply.Second was to remove washer drain hose from house drain.Third remove two (2) phillips head screws from front cover of washer ,located at bottom right and left side of front panel near floor.Lift front panel up to unhook metal retainers on panel that connect it to washer side panels.Use pliers to remove spring clamp from hose. Remove hose from washer pump. Remove clamp from hose,remove plastic retainer holding hose to washer bottom.Feed hose out the back of the washer through washer drain hose hole in the back pannel of the washer.Remove plastic retainer.Insert the new hose through the hole in the back pannel install the hose clamp and install the hose back on the pump.Relocate clamp on hose, take front panel,lift into place,push down to lock retaining taps into side cover slots replace the two phillips head screws.

Let me start by saying that I am a stay-at-home mommy of 2-year-old twin girls so if I can do this, you can too.
1. I disconntected the dryer from the outlet.
2. Then I had to pop open the top of the dryer. I had to wedge a screwdriver underneath the top lid (towards the front corners) in order to open the top.
3. Looking into the dryer from the top I could see a few screws I needed to remove that were along the sides of the drum. After removing the screws, I was able to remove the front panel of the dryer exposing the drum.
4. The seal that I needed to repair was located on the front panel. I had to remove the old seal (I had to scrap to get some of it removed).
5. I applied the adhesive then attached the upper and lower seals.
6. I let the seals dry for a few minutes then replaced the ront panel. In replacing the panel, the seals need to fit around the drum. You need to be careful in fitting the drum so that the seals remain intact and not pushed out of place.
7. Then, I simply replaced the screws to the front panel and secured the top lid back in place.
FYI: I did have a problem with the lower seal, in placing the drum over the seals, the lower was pushed out of place without me knowing. A few days later, the dryer was making a noise and clothes were still getting caught. After opening the dryer and examining the seal, I needed to reattach the seal. I was out of the adhesive but was able to use Gorilla glue (can withstand any temperature once it is dry). Works good as new now.
FYI: I also have to add that the actual replacing of the seals did not actually take 2 hours but since the dryer was opened, I took advantage and thoroughly cleaned the inside of the dryer.

The top of the agitator broke off so the washing machine was no longer spinning the agitator. Took the nut off the top of the agitator and there was a steel sleeve inside that had to come out of the agitator and be put into the new agitator so it would sit correctly on the "tower" and spin. It took me awhile to get the sleeve out of the old agitator but once I did it slipped right into the new agitator and then the new agitator bolted right onto the "tower". It only cost me $40.00 for a new part so I'm sure I saved myself around 100 dollars or more by doing it myself.

My first step was to download and print out the parts diagrams from the manufacturer's website. With a basic idea of what I needed to get to I first removed the agitator cap and the agitator and right off I found a broken bolt on plate lock bracket that holds trunnion which supports and connects the tub to the transmission drive shaft. I replaced the bolt and put it back together and gave it a test run. Spun very nicely now but water was going everywhere. Unfortunately I found that when the bolt broke the tub had slipped down and ripped the rubber "tub seal assembly". To get to the seal I ended up tearing the machine completely down and removing the whole motor and transmission assembly out of the unit. It may be possible to get at the seal without doing this but I'm not 100% sure. To get the whole unit apart I did the following: Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located at the very bottom of the panel and lifting up and out .Remove the top/lid by removing two screws underneath the top toward the front, and disconnecting lid switch, or i found it easier to just unscrew and remove it, then lift off the top/lid assembly. Remove the agitator cap and the agitator. Remove the splash cover (this is not easy- I popped each tab with a flat screw driver- the ones at the rear were very difficult). I tried to remove the fill spigot but could not get at one of the screws so getting the splash cover out was not as easy as it could have been. Remove the bolts in the bottom of the tub and lift it out. Unhook the drain hose and the level or "pressure tube". Remove the 3 large and 3 small springs from the motor assembly ( I needed a strong spring hook but all I had was vice grips, they work but it was not easy). remove any other wires etc. (mark things with tape and matching numbers if needed) and pull out the whole barrel and motor assembly. Unbolt the splash tub and remove, unbolt the trunnion and remove. And finally replace the seal. Reassemble in reverse order. Important!! Clean shaft well (I used some 300 grit fine sandpaper to remove the little bit of rust scale that had accumulated) and lubricate everything. be very careful when reassembling, as to not scuff up the seals at all. I used a silicone spray. This might not be the best thing for the job but I know at least not to use anything petroleum based such as WD-40 when you are lubricating rubber or plastic. Reinstalling the springs was very difficult and again a spring hook would have been great. Everything else went together reasonably easy. The unit works fine now. many thanks to the websites I researched to get this done.

First: Remove front and top cover
Second: remove electrical cover assbly
Third: motor belt removed
Fourth: drum assbly and bearing shaft and bracket bearing replaced
Now I need urgently (already ordered) the thermostat and glide drum

I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

after removing the panel covering the dryer blower and removing the blower cover, i pulled the old blower wheel off and placed the new whell on carefully lining the flat edge of the wheel hole up with the flat edge on the blower piston, the n i placed the clamp on and put back all the housing covers and panels...and now my dryer runs quiet and drys cloths fast....thanks to partselect!!!!

I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!

first removed the 2 screws disconected the terminals, installed new switch connected wires back and test washer and it worked like new, i put a Jumper to get the washer to work while i got the parts. Also i received the parts in 24 hrs. Thank You.