LE400MXW2 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed two screws in the inside of the front after opening the top by releasing the two clips. Front comes off of bottom clips easily. Drum can be removed and repairs made. Takes less than 30 minutes Be sure to remove door switch wire & unplug unit first. Drum belt can be re-installed easily thru the back access panel.

Popped the tub cover off....replaced with new one.
Thank you so much for a speedy delivery.

I followed the following instructions provided by the parts page and they were EXCELLENT! I had NO problems and was actually enjoyable to fix, thx. to these instructions listed below. Many thanks!!!! FIRST I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL HELD BY FOUR SCREWS AT REAR OF PANEL, PULLING THE PANEL FOWARD AND UP. THEN DISCONNECTED THE POWER AND WATER CONNECTIONS. THEN I REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS HOLDING THE FLOW VALVE TO THE WASHER REAR PANEL,PULLED THE VALVE FOWARD ,REMOVED THE TWO ELECTRIC CONNECTORS, PINCHED THE WATER CLAMP WITH PLIERS AND REMOVED THE WATER CONNECTION TO THE VALVE. THEN REPLACED WITH THE NEW VALVE FOLLOWED THE ABOVE STEPS IN REVERSE ORDER, FINISHING UP BY RE PLACING THE WATER CONNECTIONS AND POWER. THEN CHECKED FO PROPER REPLACENENT AND LEAKS BEFORE REPLACING TOP PANEL

1. Turned off water to washing machine.
2. Used plyers to disconnect the hoses at the back of the washer.
3. Unscrewed old inlet valve from back.
4. Opened top panel of washer and disconnected hose running to wash basin.
4. Lifted the old unit out and unplugged electrical wiring.
5. Reverse above and you're finished!
If you're reading this you can probably do the repair.
Saved myself $500+ on a new washing machine. Wife is happy.

After watching the video that explained and showed how to replace the bearing assembly, installation was a breeze. Great company to do business with. Ordered the part and had it in two days, and the dryer was working again asap. Thanks PartSelect
PS this dryer is 23 years old.

Removed two screws that held top of washer in place. removed top of washer. Removed two screws that held water inlet alve in place. Removed clamp and outlet hose from old inlet valve.












































































Removed two screws hold wash machine cover in place. Removed cover. Unscrewed cold and hot water supply lines from old inlet valve. Removed two screws holding inlet valve in place. Removed clamp and hose from inlet outlet hose. Replaced inew inlet in reverse order.

Pulled out the machine. Disconnected water lines. Removed four screws attaching the top brackets. In rear of top panel. Slid top panel forward and clear of valve. Removed two wire harnesses. Removed two screws holding valve to the back panel. Pulled valve down and out. Removed outlet side line spring clamp with channel lock pliers and pulled hose off old valve. Installed outlet side hose and spring clamp onto new valve. Placed valve up into place and installed two screws. Installed two wiring harnesses. Replaced top lid. Replaced lid bracket screws. Re-attached water hoses and pushed the machine back into place.

I love technology. First thing I did was google on "U-tube", "How to repair a squeaking dryer". Several videos out there so I just found the one I needed and watched. The repair itself went easy. A word of advice would be to be careful of sharp edges and to remember to unplug the machine prior to repair. While the drum is out, go ahead and get your shop vac and clean the inside of the unit out. Also, not only put grease on the new plastic holder, but put some on the shaft of the idler puller. I also used an awl to line up the holes on the front panel when re-installing the screws. One video I watched showed reaching in through the front to take the drum belt off the pulley, where another showed removing the inspection plate on the back. This made it much easier.

Lift washer lid by jerking the lid up and open. Remove front panel by removing 2 screws at front bottom and guiding tabs out of slots. Locate tabs on tub cover and gently pry loose with a flat blade screwdriver or putty knife. Remove tub cover and inspect seal area for damage or debris. Replace new tub cover on tub and align and fasten each tab. Ensure that lid is securely fastened to tub by pressing top of cover down and visually inspecting that each tab is engaged with tub hooks. Replace front panel. Use anti-seize grease when replacing the 2 front panel screws. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top lid spring clips before closing washer top. (The last 2 tips will help any future opening of the washer.)

I had trouble with the little piece on the back side of the dryer not lining up with the bearing housing. I also didn't see how the drum was gonna stay in place but finally realized the front cover lines it up. All in all it was awesome to get the part I needed so quickly and cheap, thanks a lot.

I followed others instructions on this site to disassemble but felt confident since 2-3 years prior I had replaced the felt top/bottom guides around the drum and the drum belt. The video on this page is also helpful

1) Pop the top with a putty knife
2) Unscrew two screws that hold the front onto the dryer frame
3) Lift front from two clips at bottom of dryer
4) Release tension from belt (unscrew/remove rear access plate)
4) Lift drum up and forward out of dryer
5) Unscrew drum bearing 3x screws from inside of drum
5) Remove the drum bearing holder
6) Pre-thread the rear drum bearing!!! Very important. Thread by screwing a supplied screw slowly through the pre-drilled holes.
7) Attach drum bearing
8) Attach new rear holder/cup & ball bearing (ball bearing goes on outside of plastic cup)
9) Use lots of supplied grease, espeiclly helpful that it acts as a temporary glue holding the ball bearing in place
10) Reverse steps to assemble

I'm glad I bought the entire rear bearing kit as I found the bearing holder had completely worn through and partially melted the metal cup. The ball bearing was missing - gone!

Also found that the power cord had partially melted, so I replaced that from the hardware store. Scary.

First I have to say that the video on the Parts Select website was invaluable, it truly made the replacement a no brainer. The kit came with everything I need and was a great price.

Unplug the dryer, mine is a stackable so we had to remove the dry from the top of the washer. I then followed the instructions from the video. The only real difference was that my dryer is that is has dual direction tumbling, so there were 2 idler arms instead of one to move in order to un hook the belt. was pretty easy.

I only needed my husband's help a couple of times because 1. To get the dryer off of the washer. And 2. I didn’t have the reach to install the new bearing on the back of the drum.

We had the rear drum bearing replaced about three years ago. The company that serviced it was quick to take our money for the diagnosis but took over a month (and a threat to call the better business bureau) to actually make the repair. This time I decided to do it my self as I had successfully replaced the the drum drive belt two years ago. The dissassembly was challenging but the repair it's self very easy. I opted to use nuts and bolts to attach the bearing assembly rather than the supplied screws as they did not want to tighten. Reassmbly was a bit of a challenge regarding the drum drive belt but I had the entire repair done in less than an hour.

There are really good instructions with photos on line - search squeeky dryer. I would add that it is easier if you mount the new bearing assembly on the drum before placing the drum back in the dryer cabinet. I guess this is obvious but was not stated in the referenced instructions. The round bearing slotts fairly easily into the plastic pillow block mounted on the back of the cabinet. Just make sure the small ball bearing remains in the center groove - lots of greese will help this.

This was for my Daughter's dryer. A helper really makes this quick and easy. First of all-UNPLUG the unit from the wall. I pried the top up with flat screwdriver. Laid the top back against wall. Removed the two wires from the door cut-off switch. Then removed the two screw attaching the front to the cabinet. Removed the small access panel on back of cabinet. Depressed the belt tensioner to release pressure on the leather drive belt. Went back to front, pushed the belt to the rear of cabinet, then lifted the back of drum to pop the bearing up and out of the plastic cup. I then tilted the drum forward and down and removed through front of cabinet. Reached inside the drum with Phillips screwdriver, removing the two screws to realease the bearing and BB bracket from back of drum. I attached the new bearing cup with BB to the back of cabinet, filling the cup with the high temp grease provided in the cup. Before installing the new bearing on the drum, I ran the new screws into and back out of the new bearing to cut the threads, making it easier to attach on the drum. I then put the drum back into the cabinet popping the bearing into the top of the plastic cup. Next I went to the back, put a bit of grease on the shaft that the tensioner bearing rides on. I re-set the belt on the tensioner, making sure the belt was back in the original position around the drum. I then re-attached the front cabinet centering the front of the drum on the felt. This felt supports the front of the drum. I manually gave the drum a few turns to make sure the drum was centered properly, and belt was mounted correctly. I then re-attached the two wires to the door switch. Slid the dryer into position, inserted the plug back into the outlet. Turmed it on, and now the dryer runs like new again. My Daughter is happy again. You will want to have a vac handy because it is unbelievable how much lint and dust are in the cabinet. I also took the filter bracket apart and cleaned it too.