FLCE752CAW2 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

purchased part (drum belt) didn't fit the drum it was larger,, i select the size according to model number and serial number but unfortunately it was wasting of time and money and i still don't have dryer.

just changed filter

I seen a post on your website referring to the exact problem I was having. One of your staff recommended changing the control thermistor, which I did following the U-Tube video link you supplied. The repair went well and the dryer now operates perfectly ! Thanks for the accurate and helpful info.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Popped the topped using a putty knife to free two clips in front. Remove two screws now accessible on the front inside panel. Remove two wires to door switch. Remove rear access door, two screws. Remove belt from tensioner in rear and remember or take picture of how it goes. Lift barrel slightly and pivot front panel out of the way. Lift barrel free from ball socket in rear. Lift out from front panel area. R & R kit and put back in reverse order.

All I had to do was pop in the new door catch. Works perfectly.

removed the old gasket with pliers (noting where the beginning/end of the gasket was) then installed new gasket in the exact location with very light pressure on each rubber insert point. Voila!!

just put it in the dryer filter area

I first diagnosed the problem using a Google search. Amazing how many hits I got and after reading a few was pretty certain what the cause was and what parts I probably needed to make the repair.
Some of the articles I read had links or mentioned PartSelect, so I searched for my model # and found the parts I would probably need. Knowing that I could probably get the parts I needed I disassembled the dryer (pretty easy really) and removed the old suspect part. It was devoid of lubricant and the bearing and ball showed some wear so I ordered the Bearing Assembly suggested by PartSelect (the illustrations looked just like my old parts). I left the dryer disassembled while I waited for the part, figuring it would take a week or so to arrive.
Much to my surprise, the part arrived three days later and after cleaning the dryer innards of all collected lint I put it all back together in 30 minutes.
So for a little research, a $30 part, and about an hour of my time, I have a clean and quiet operating dryer. I see no reason I can't get another 10 or so years out of it.
I consider myself a reasonably handy guy but had never worked on a dryer before. I'll be unlikely to ever call a repairman without first doing some investigation and seeing if the parts are available. With the internet and PartSelect I think I could take on a lot of other repairs I'm not familiar with. Thanks for a great outcome this time around.
Kevin

Disconnect from electric and water supply, and move appliance to an area where you can access front, rear, and top of dryer. On rear of dryer remove the 2 screws on the small square panel, remove panel to expose dryer motor and tensioner pulley. On top of dryer remove the 4 front screws, but not the center screw, it is not necessary as it is holding something on the inside. Open dryer door and remove the lint trap, exposing the vent. Remove the 2 plastic snaps using a flat screwdriver. This will disconnect the vent from the front panel. Next remove the 2 small screws on top sides of the control panel. Remove the 2 screws on angled back panel, and remove panel. Remove approx. 10 more screws holding the under panel on, and on the bottom of control panel. Remove under panel, and slide control panel up and pull out, disconnect electrical connection on left side. Remove front off of dryer carefully, the weight of the drum is holding it in place. Vacuum everything, remove broken belt, put new belt on drum, rib side down, and slide all the way back all around. Go to rear of dryer and remove tensioner arm off of its post, there is a slot to do so, put belt on motor pulley, reapply tensioner arm in position so belt goes around it. Spin the drum a few times by pulling on the belt to make sure there are no twists. Place the front of dryer back on, put two corner screws in the top, and reseat the drum. Reconnect the electrical connection inside dryer you disconnected earlier, plug in dryer, and turn on to test. If it heats and turns well done, if not good luck. Unplug, slide vent back in, reinstall plastic clips, and ensure that vent is seated in the foam pad on the exhaust motor vent. Work backwards and put panels back in place with screws. Job done.

After watching the video that explained and showed how to replace the bearing assembly, installation was a breeze. Great company to do business with. Ordered the part and had it in two days, and the dryer was working again asap. Thanks PartSelect
PS this dryer is 23 years old.

I love technology. First thing I did was google on "U-tube", "How to repair a squeaking dryer". Several videos out there so I just found the one I needed and watched. The repair itself went easy. A word of advice would be to be careful of sharp edges and to remember to unplug the machine prior to repair. While the drum is out, go ahead and get your shop vac and clean the inside of the unit out. Also, not only put grease on the new plastic holder, but put some on the shaft of the idler puller. I also used an awl to line up the holes on the front panel when re-installing the screws. One video I watched showed reaching in through the front to take the drum belt off the pulley, where another showed removing the inspection plate on the back. This made it much easier.

This was for my Daughter's dryer. A helper really makes this quick and easy. First of all-UNPLUG the unit from the wall. I pried the top up with flat screwdriver. Laid the top back against wall. Removed the two wires from the door cut-off switch. Then removed the two screw attaching the front to the cabinet. Removed the small access panel on back of cabinet. Depressed the belt tensioner to release pressure on the leather drive belt. Went back to front, pushed the belt to the rear of cabinet, then lifted the back of drum to pop the bearing up and out of the plastic cup. I then tilted the drum forward and down and removed through front of cabinet. Reached inside the drum with Phillips screwdriver, removing the two screws to realease the bearing and BB bracket from back of drum. I attached the new bearing cup with BB to the back of cabinet, filling the cup with the high temp grease provided in the cup. Before installing the new bearing on the drum, I ran the new screws into and back out of the new bearing to cut the threads, making it easier to attach on the drum. I then put the drum back into the cabinet popping the bearing into the top of the plastic cup. Next I went to the back, put a bit of grease on the shaft that the tensioner bearing rides on. I re-set the belt on the tensioner, making sure the belt was back in the original position around the drum. I then re-attached the front cabinet centering the front of the drum on the felt. This felt supports the front of the drum. I manually gave the drum a few turns to make sure the drum was centered properly, and belt was mounted correctly. I then re-attached the two wires to the door switch. Slid the dryer into position, inserted the plug back into the outlet. Turmed it on, and now the dryer runs like new again. My Daughter is happy again. You will want to have a vac handy because it is unbelievable how much lint and dust are in the cabinet. I also took the filter bracket apart and cleaned it too.

Taking it apart was no problem other than having to remove solidified grease in order to remove bearing. Also I found it easier to remove belt by removing screws holding drum in place first. Putting it back together was more involved. Taping metal strip to back with scotch tape made putting in new bracket a breeze. Tipping dryer on its' back was the only way I could get the screw holes to line up when installing the drum. Removing the vent cover, and installing from the back, made re-installing the belt tensioner much easier.

There are really good instructions with photos on line - search squeeky dryer. I would add that it is easier if you mount the new bearing assembly on the drum before placing the drum back in the dryer cabinet. I guess this is obvious but was not stated in the referenced instructions. The round bearing slotts fairly easily into the plastic pillow block mounted on the back of the cabinet. Just make sure the small ball bearing remains in the center groove - lots of greese will help this.