LE600AXW1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.

Order the Bearing Kit and Belt. All the necessary parts are included. I used them all and everything fit perfect. For the stack unit have a step stool to reach the screws on top. Remove the top screws. Remove the front panel and door assembly. Be sure to disconnect the electrical connector behind the control panel before you pull out the door assembly. Remove the belt. Pop up the dryer drum and remove. Replace all the bearing parts with new in the kit. Hang the new belt around the drum and reinstall the drum. Connect the belt using the access panel on rear of unit. Reinstall the front panel, door assembly and top panel. A helper to install the new drum bearing bracket is handy.

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.

This link provides clear simple instructions which I was able to use successfully.

Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.

Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.

Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.

I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package