RBD305PDB14 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

First thing you must do is remove door from oven, to do this there are locks on the hinges, lift them up. Next put door into an upright position with door opened about two inches, lift up and pull away from oven. Lay door on flat surface with inside of door facing up. there are two screws at to of door and two screws at bottom of door remove them place to side. next there are four more screws on each corner of the inside of door, they also need to be removed. this will cause the inside and outside of door to come apart. Hold door together and flip over, be careful. remove outside of door put to side. there is a bracket at the bottom with two screws remove, and remove bracket. There is a bracket at top with one screw remove. there are two pieces of glass be careful remove the two pieces of glass to get to the broken piece. Clean broken glass be careful not to cut yourself. Remember how you removed everything to put back together, do everything in reverse. Good luck, it's not that bad.

INNER GLASS - A YouTube video on removing Whirlpool Oven Doors was very helpful. Cleaning the other two panels of glass with a Baking Soda paste worked like a dream. Re-assembly was fairly easy. The hardest part was re-aligning the outer glass cover's top holes so I could drive the screws in. LIGHT BULBS - To easy to describe.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

Instructions were clear and the work was easy. Take your time and think about what you are doing, and you won't have any problems replacing the glass.

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

took out door hinges, slightly close door, lift upwards, remove clips on bottom of door, remove screws from 2 inner layers of glass, insert new glass, perform revers order reassembly..cleaned all inner glass, and surrounding parts prior to reassembly

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.