IBS330PRS00 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

find the owner's manual & follow the instructions for inserting two allen wrenches (assuming that you cannot find the "removal tools" that came with the oven) into the holes near the hinges on the door, carefully & slowly close the door with the wrenches inserted until the hinges disengage from the wall mounted oven. Lift the door away (is rather heavy). It is necessary to remove panels from the front one layer at a time to reach the 3rd layer of glass (the inner most glass that is the rather easy one to break). Be slow and methodical. Not a challenge once you study the owner's manual for door removal instructions.

This 60 y.o. female had no owners manual. I completely relied on the information of this forum. *Recommend having a work area prepped before starting. I used a thick beach towel on the kitchen table. A layer of newspaper to catch all the dirty bits is a good idea.*You must remove the door - I followed the instructions using the allen wrench in the holes of the hinge. Open door. I put the short end of the wrench in the hole and leaned the long end against the oven rim. Start closing door and when almost closed, lift up to remove.*Place door handle side up on work surface to remove the 4 screws that hold outermost glass in place, 2 at top and two in brackets at bottom. Lay this aside in safe place on table. *Take off each layer to reach broken glass. *The hinge assembly has to be removed and the allen wrenches have to come out in order to accomplish this. Squeeze the hinge to take pressure off wrench to remove. Gloves help protect your hands for this step.Remove 2 screws each side. Keep each hinge next to the side it came from so you reassemble correctly.*If you have a phone with photo capability - I recommend you take a photo of each disassembly step. This saved me when it came to replacing the two brackets that hold the inner two pieces of glass. Clean all parts before reassembly (this takes the longest amount of time). I placed a thick cup towel in my sink and scrubbed. The cleaner I use for my glass range surface worked best. Dry thoroughly. When you get to the shattered glass remove it very carefully to avoid damaging the insulation underneath. I wish I had just purchased replacement insulation. Once the glass is replaced, everything goes back in reverse order. Now, here's the thing. I spent alot of time scrubbing. So, by the time I got to reassembly, I was bamboozled by the two 10 inch aluminum brackets that hold the two inner pieces of glass in place. So, to avoid any confusion, pay close attention to how these two brackets are placed or take pictures. This was an easy fix that went really well thanks to all the helpful info found here.

I lifted the door from the oven. I reviewed the break down of the parts. The only tool needed was a screw driver to disassemble the door. I stacked each part in the order it was removed and replaced them in reverse order. PS, I cleaned the old glass before it was reinstalled it.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

1. REMEMBERED TO SHUT OFF THE APPLICABLE 240V BREAKER. 2. Carefully removed the 2 screws holding the element to the oven structure 3. Carefully extracted the 2 wires from the holes at the rear. 4. Carefully removed the wires from the old element 5. Attached the wire sockets to the new element. 6. Carefully eased the wires back through the holes at the rear 7. Attached the 2 screws through the element holding clamp to the rear wall of the oven. Everything went better than I had expected.

Had no problem replacing the glass it took my Husband and I less than 30 min. It took only a screw driver and that's it. Very easy

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

replace thermal safety switch on back of oven

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.