GDB277PDQ1 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

I paid for an online advice service (Just answer)after failing to remove the hinges. The advice was not remotely helpful and I have asked for my deposit back.

Here are the steps:

Remove the door: Place the two tiny studs taken from the tongues of the new hinges in the same holes in the old door.
Holding the door just open, lift up and out to remove the door from the oven.

Lay the door on its inside surface, then remove 2 Phillips head screws from both the top and bottom edges of the door to release the front glass assembly. The hinges can now be seen.

Turn the door over and remove four Phillips heads screws to release the hinges, replace with new hinges.

Replace the two small studs in the hinge tongues and replace the door reversing the removal process. Remove and save the two studs (handy if you ever want to clean the glass on the inside)

Used a Phillips head screw driver to remove cover that was covering the over bottom 1/3 of the installed gasket. I then used flathead screwdriver to help remove gasket from the "pins" that were in the gasket that held it to the oven. Installed new gasket inserting pins into the oven. Then I installed cover over bottom 1/3 of gasket. Overall process was very easy

The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.

Removed the door and laid it flat with the cracked glass facing up. applied duct tape to the broken glass to help hold it together. Removed the screws from the frame holding the glass. lifted the frame off,removed the broken glass and replaced it with the new piece. replaced the frame. and put the door back on the oven.

Scarey> First thing you should do is cut off the electricity at the main breaker box. I dam near blowed myself up. It's 220Volt I found out after all hell blew up in my face. I was lucky and didn't get shocked.I shorted out the old broiler element.

So I made the job real easy I called a professional to come install the new broiler element.

I suggest you put a big red paper in each box that says turn off the power first. If your not sure how to do that call a pro.

Turned off breaker to oven. Removed 2 screws, used pliers to remove 2 wires from old element, replaced with new part, connected wires to new element and screwed in 2 screws. Turned on breaker, then oven and new element heated. Very easy!

removed door from oven using hinge locking pins supplied with oven when bought (two small screwdrivers might also work). Put door face down on a towel, removed two screw s on top and on bottom edge, removed back of door, then removed the two screws on eac side holding the old hinge springs. installed new hinge spings and replaced the door. no problems and used the opportunity to clean the door glass.

Replaced the lower heating element with a new part.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

Removed door per manual instructions, then disassembled door components until I could remove the hinges. Nothing wrong with either one visually but, hoping the springs had become weak over time, I ordered replacements from PartSelect, knnowing I had a 30-day return window if my diagnosis was wromg.

It was right. Door now closes just fine.

I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else install. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!

First I cut off power ! 2 screws for oven trim,4 more to disconnect from cabinet. Hardest part was pulling oven out and pushing back in. I found a big box of correct size to rest it on so I didn't need to disconnect the powerline. 8 more screws to remove the back panel. 2 screws to remove the thermostat.Then put it back together. New part had arrived sooner than expected, cost of the part was less than a minimum service call would have been! I absolutly will use your site again.PS Wife was amazed and now thinks I'm a genious.

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.