RBS245PRS00 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

unscrewed the top glass protector off and took the old bulb out and put the new bulb in. very easy - less than 5 minutes.

removed two screws in rear of oven. pulled old element out replaced new one. piece of cake.I am a 70 year old female. if i can do it anyone can.thank you for your swift delivery.

Turned off circuit breaker. Unscrewed two screws, although they required a square tipped screwdriver insert which I fortunately had phone estimates for this job were between $150 - $180. Could not have been easier.

Removed baking racks from oven. Then I removed two screws from the back of the oven that held the element in place. I disconnected the elements from the spade clips and connected the new element. I remounted the element with the 2 screws and placed the racks back in the oven.

Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

A generic video on Youtube was actually very helpful as it showed how to remove the door from the oven for easier glass replacement. The only tricky part is getting the panes of glass in the correct order during reassembly,as there are actually 4 pieces in the door. Only the piece that faces the oven's interior was cracked on mine. The two inner pieces between the two outermost pieces are the ones not to mix up. This little repair also gave me the opportunity to thoroughly clean all 4 pieces of glass that had become rather dirty over 12 years. Now the oven door looks like new!