GBD277PDQ5 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

ordered new broiler pan

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Simple - Removed oven door attached retainer with screw.Re attached door.

Whirlpool wanted three time the cost of the same parts The only shipping option was Fedex Overnight which was very costly.

Your prices are great "Parts Select".

Jan

I first removed the door from the front of the oven according to instructions that I found on the Internet from others that have had similar problems. I then removed a total of 8 screws - 4 that were holding the door together, and 2 each for the two hinges that I replaced. After replacing the hinges, I re-installed the 4 screws and then guided the oven door back into place. It took probably about 20 minutes from start to finish, and the news hinges that I purchased solved the problem perfectly.

Remove oven from wall, remove top and back covers.Remove old fan assembly. The new assembly fit right in and works great.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.

Once the door was secured with hinge locking pins which I made out of cut off 16 penny nails,I removed the door , layed it on a soft padded piece of vinyl and proceeded to remove the inside top cover which was secured with phillips screws on the top and sides. I was then greeted by 2 sheets of glass before I could get to the front glass which was the one that cracked.These sheets of glass were secures with slotted metal frames which also required removing several screws and braces. I was then able to remove the cracked glass and replace it with the new glass panel. Then I had to reverse the steps to assemble the door which was fairly easy since I made a diagram of the steps when I disassembled the door (this saved me alot of aggravation since my memory isn't what it used to be. The door was fitted into the frame of the oven and once the hinges were in place I removed the pins and closed the door. It was at that point that I got a kiss from my grateful wife. End of story.

My mother and I were having considerable trouble baking or using the wall oven due to the escape of heat because the door wouldn't close properly. She, on many occasions, rested heavy baking pans/sheets on the door which, over years, caused it to "spring". Before I started the project I took a level and saw the door was facing down at least 3/8"-1/2" more than being level. I assumed it was the Door Hinges and after much research I found PartSelect who was extremely helpful in not only advising me as to the exact problem causing the door to not close properly but also in the ordering process itself. Because of the complexity of how the door is assembled I took digital video at various stages: removal of the door, disassembly of the entire door, removal of the control panel, and various small parts of the door - all with audio description by me as I went along. Because it took a few days to order and receive the parts I had time to clean the baked-on, caked-on grease inside all the parts to include the vents on the door and under the control panel using a power-washer when possible. I obtained auto-strength grease cutter/remover and soaked every "group" of screws in separate glass jars with covers (labeled). I also taped screws to a piece of paper, traced them to make sure they went back in the same place, and washed these as I went along. At the time the parts were received they were packaged in a fantastic way - quick shipping, easy to order, and I immediately started to reassemble the door. When I found my video wasn't enough to help me get the door assembled properly I used .pdf files I found on PartSelect which were extemely helpful and with a laptop close by I referred to the video I had taken and also SmartSelect's .pdf files. Because my digital camera was - and is now defective - I lost some of the most important video and this is the reason it took me almost 5-1/2 hours to reassemble the door. I wanted it to be correct given the oven is self-cleaning plus I do not want fires in the house!! All parts were laid out across three rooms and after being like this for almost a week it was great to have the entire oven back together again. At this point the oven door, when opened, is now facing "up" at least 3/4" as opposed to hanging down as it was before this project started. I closed the door and it actually pulled itself shut - something it hadn't done in years! The hinges came with pins already inserted so I didn't have to wrestle with the hinges to insert the original pins. The gasket was the easiest part to replace - simple removal of the old, worn, charred one and pop in the new one using the little clips that came on the hinge. The hinges themselves are extremely strong and well-made. After this project I have to say the oven now looks BETTER than when purchased, my mother has used it to cook with only once and it took 1/2 to 3/4 the time given the door is now completely closed because of the new hinges. I am totally satisfied with the parts, with PartSelect, will keep this site as a reference for further replacement parts if needed, and the oven is positively GORGEOUS after it was thoroughly cleansed of built-up grease. It looks BETTER than a new oven!! THANK YOU, PARTSELECT, for all your help and perfect parts!!

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.