RBD245PDT15 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

Simple - Removed oven door attached retainer with screw.Re attached door.

Whirlpool wanted three time the cost of the same parts The only shipping option was Fedex Overnight which was very costly.

Your prices are great "Parts Select".

Jan

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

A generic video on Youtube was actually very helpful as it showed how to remove the door from the oven for easier glass replacement. The only tricky part is getting the panes of glass in the correct order during reassembly,as there are actually 4 pieces in the door. Only the piece that faces the oven's interior was cracked on mine. The two inner pieces between the two outermost pieces are the ones not to mix up. This little repair also gave me the opportunity to thoroughly clean all 4 pieces of glass that had become rather dirty over 12 years. Now the oven door looks like new!

I followed the instructions for installation on your site. I encountered two problems. I was unable to unscrew several screws. I had to used wd40 and slight encouragement from a soft hammer. Also, I was glad for the advice in one instruction about paying attention to the type of screw (flat or more flat). Otherwise, when I was ready to put everything back together, I would have had some problems. The flatter screws definitely had to be used in certain areas.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

Took the door off, removed the screws, took door cover off, cleaned the other two pieces of glass and the new one, and then reassembled. I set the screws aside so I put them back in the same holes. I never want to take the chance of a possible cross threaded screw not going back into the same hole. Note:Now is a good time to clean edges with oven cleaner before reassembly.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Remove the door from the oven by rotating the two hinge locks. Place on soft working surface with inside door facing up. Remove screws from side , bottom and top of door. Place screws in groups as they were removed, the heads are different. Do not mix screws. Rotate door so outer Glass front is now on top. Slowly remove inner panel by sliding the outer glass panel towards bottom of door. Carefully remove inner portion of door with the two inner glass panels. Remove inner broken glass from innermost panel. replace with new glass and reverse operations to reassemble door. Make sure the white filler maaterial is back from edge of inner door glass or you will be able to see it from the front after reassembly.When all assembled, slide door back onto hinges relock hinges and you are ready to go.