GBS307PDB9 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

This 60 y.o. female had no owners manual. I completely relied on the information of this forum. *Recommend having a work area prepped before starting. I used a thick beach towel on the kitchen table. A layer of newspaper to catch all the dirty bits is a good idea.*You must remove the door - I followed the instructions using the allen wrench in the holes of the hinge. Open door. I put the short end of the wrench in the hole and leaned the long end against the oven rim. Start closing door and when almost closed, lift up to remove.*Place door handle side up on work surface to remove the 4 screws that hold outermost glass in place, 2 at top and two in brackets at bottom. Lay this aside in safe place on table. *Take off each layer to reach broken glass. *The hinge assembly has to be removed and the allen wrenches have to come out in order to accomplish this. Squeeze the hinge to take pressure off wrench to remove. Gloves help protect your hands for this step.Remove 2 screws each side. Keep each hinge next to the side it came from so you reassemble correctly.*If you have a phone with photo capability - I recommend you take a photo of each disassembly step. This saved me when it came to replacing the two brackets that hold the inner two pieces of glass. Clean all parts before reassembly (this takes the longest amount of time). I placed a thick cup towel in my sink and scrubbed. The cleaner I use for my glass range surface worked best. Dry thoroughly. When you get to the shattered glass remove it very carefully to avoid damaging the insulation underneath. I wish I had just purchased replacement insulation. Once the glass is replaced, everything goes back in reverse order. Now, here's the thing. I spent alot of time scrubbing. So, by the time I got to reassembly, I was bamboozled by the two 10 inch aluminum brackets that hold the two inner pieces of glass in place. So, to avoid any confusion, pay close attention to how these two brackets are placed or take pictures. This was an easy fix that went really well thanks to all the helpful info found here.

INNER GLASS - A YouTube video on removing Whirlpool Oven Doors was very helpful. Cleaning the other two panels of glass with a Baking Soda paste worked like a dream. Re-assembly was fairly easy. The hardest part was re-aligning the outer glass cover's top holes so I could drive the screws in. LIGHT BULBS - To easy to describe.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

I removed the oven door using the instructions in the book that came with the oven useing 2 allen wrenches as described. I called up the parts list for the oven door on my computer and made a copy.This was very helpful in removeing the door and getting to the broken glass and installing the new glass The one thing that that i regret was not ordering the insulation frame that went around the new glass. It was difficult getting it back in place.I would order this part if I have to do this again. I ordered the new glass on a Saturday and the new glass was delivered on Tuesday.Thank you for the great service. Bill- Texas

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Door repair assembly was simple, did without any instructions or manuals. Fan assembly, the actual fan replacement was easy, it was the number of pieces of metal that needed to be removed i order to get the main rear panel off to access. Also had to remove panel from inside the oven; requires two people to loosen screws from inside while the other person holds the fan assembly from the rear side of the oven. Didn't have any instructions for this task either, figured it out anyway, just follow the layers.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.