GBD307PRY01 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!

INNER GLASS - A YouTube video on removing Whirlpool Oven Doors was very helpful. Cleaning the other two panels of glass with a Baking Soda paste worked like a dream. Re-assembly was fairly easy. The hardest part was re-aligning the outer glass cover's top holes so I could drive the screws in. LIGHT BULBS - To easy to describe.

I turned off the power from the circuit breaker. I then removed the doors and the trim package from around the oven. I slid out the oven and had my husband help me lower it to the floor. I removed the back covering and then removed the wires connected to the old thermostat. I unscrewed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new thermostat. Did everything in reverse and it seems to be working very well. It took about 30 minutes total. Some sites suggested that a fuse needed to be adjusted/replaced. In this kitchen-aid double oven and I'm assuming whirlpools as well, the thermostat/fuse is one piece located on the back of the unit. It was very simple. The piece cost $47. Such a great investment of time and money. I had the piece in 2 days, without paying extra postage.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

Removed wall oven from wall. Removed back cover. Unscrewed thermastat and removed old thermastat. Screwed in new thermastat and put back together.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

I removed the oven door using the instructions in the book that came with the oven useing 2 allen wrenches as described. I called up the parts list for the oven door on my computer and made a copy.This was very helpful in removeing the door and getting to the broken glass and installing the new glass The one thing that that i regret was not ordering the insulation frame that went around the new glass. It was difficult getting it back in place.I would order this part if I have to do this again. I ordered the new glass on a Saturday and the new glass was delivered on Tuesday.Thank you for the great service. Bill- Texas

Hardest part was getting the oven door off. Since I bought this house with oven already in place, I had no owner's manual. Tried to get it off with tips found on this site, no go. Went online and found the manual which said to insert allen wrench in holes in hinge, then lift up FROM THE BOTTOM. That is the key. Got door off, then found that replacing the inner glass is a multi step process that starts with the outside door, then multiple brackets to the next inside glass, then more braces to next glass, then finally you are at the broken (inside) glass.My advice would be to take pictures on cell phone or whatever of each level, so you know what goes where when you put it all back. I figured it out but would be faster with a picture. Anyway, got all together and the oven works fine, door looks great!.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.