GBS277PDB8 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Verify power is off to the oven, turned main power supply off for the oven at the breaker panel, located the securing screws for the defective element, used a Phillips screw driver to remove the screws, pulled the element slightly out unit wires are exposed, verify 0 volts at the element wiring terminals, used pliers to remove the wires to complete the uninstalling process, reinstall the element in the reverse order, restored power at the breaker panel

I was able to remove the old element and planned it with what little time off that I could. This would have been maybe 20-30 minute repair at the most. HOWEVER! I was extremely irritated screws were not included? When I called to ask if they were missing they said they didn’t come with the element. Cost me a very annoying trip to the hardware store. Not sure if I missed it on the site that they don’t provide screws - would have been nice to know that before I started. Still scratching my head as to why screws wouldn’t be included? My old ones were as beat up as the element I replaced. I was so irritated I was looking for a spot to leave feedback. Product is fine. Shipping was fine. Sending these products out as they do? Zero stars on that.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

Remove the left/right outside trim on the double oven. To do this you will need a phillip screw driver. There is only one screw holding each side located at the bottom of the trim (on the inside between the trim and the door). Remove the trim by pulling out and down. Remove the bottom trim by removing the screws located on the outside of the trim. Remove the trim by pulling down and out. Replace the new trim by reversing the process making sure to replace bottom trim first because the outside trim goes over bottom trim to cover up the screws on the bottom trim

The tech said he used No 2 Phillip's. Once I took the door off and removed the racks I quickly learned a Phillips was not going to work. I am now the proud owner of a Kobslt star and square ratchet screwdriver.

Watched the repair video and started the project. Ran into a problem when trying to remove the interior panel off the door to reach the broken interior glass. On this model Kitchen Aid there is another section that is screwed in holding the exterior glass pieces in place. It prevents the interior panel from coming off the front of the oven door. So we had to flip over the door and unscrew the glass retaining bars to get the interior panel off and reach the glass. This allows the entire door to come apart in pieces so you have to carefully line up everything to re-assemble the door. Part of the issue with this is some of the retaining screws are not very long so you have to press the pieces back together to make sure the screw will catch in the original hole. We had to do this twice to ensure the interior door glass was laying flush on its mounts. A bit fiddly for sure, and if I was working alone it may not have been successful. But at least we know how the door is put together!

Removed locking device

I shut the power off first as this is 240v. Then removed all the screws that hold the element on. The old one had 5 screws. For this part you will need to buy new or reuse the old screws. I reused the old ones. Once loose the element pulled forward and exposed the connectors. I used pliers to pull the broken one out as it did not come out with the old element. It will only pull out a few inches, but that is enough to unplug the connectors. After unplugged the element can be taken to recycling. The new one can be set in the oven with the connectors near the wires and plug the two sides into the connectors. Have a screw ready and slide the rear of the element back into rear which will support it while you insert one of the screws into the front support to hold the element in place. Then move the element and support as needed to install the remaining screws. Once it is all tight, turn on the power and make sure it works.

Very easy. Take the two top screws out and the two bottom holders off. The bottom holders hold the glass up in place. Grab the handle and pull glass out. To install put handles screws back on the glass and slide in place. Once in place install the bottom holders pieces back on. *** I would buy screws because after years of use the head rust out and sometimes they are hard to get off... all in all very easy to install

I turn off the power in the breaker box and then unscrew the part and replace it with the new one

First remove the side trimmings by opening the oven door and taking out the two screws near the bottom. Remove the bottom trim by removing the two screws now exposed. Here's the hard part .. The outer glass is held by 4 screws 2 at the top and 2 through U brackets at the bottom. You must remove the 2 bottom ones first and then VERY carefully, whilst supporting the glass remove the 2 top ones and then gently pull from the bottom to release the glass at the top and pull away. The rest is straightforward. There are 4 glass pieces to remove, make sure you clean the finger marks off as you replace them. I would suggest 2 people to replace the final outer glass 'to be safe"

Disconnect the sensor harness and checked resistance on the sensor,should read around 1100 ohm I only got 25.The sensor is mounted in the oven cavity back wall below upper element,the door must be removed. Unscrew 2 Philips head screw,unhook the harness,install new sensor,reconnect harness,install screws.

I looked up the problem and determined I needed to replace the limit switch which is inside the back panel. As a 78 year old woman who isn't afraid to tackle these problems I found this easier than most. Just be sure to disconnect the electrical connection if you don't have long enough length to pull oven from the wall cabinet. I won't put any sheet pans in the oven next time I self clean it.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on