RBS307PVB02 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

I used the manufacturers' manual as a guide and removed the door. This was not straightforward because the diagram was overly simplified. Once I figured it out, door removal was quite easy. I then took the door apart layer by layer (there are several), cleaning each part with oven cleaner, or detergent as I went. If not for cleaning, the repair would have taken half the amount of time. I then put the door together again and re-attached it. This was a little bit tricky but I got it to snap into place on the second attempt. Overall, this is a fairly easy repair and I do not have too much to add to existing comments. I would add the following: (1) Use work gloves to remove the broken glass. In fact, use gloves to handle all glass. (2) Take your time when re-assembling the door because the layers have to be lined up accurately for the screws to take and hold all of the layers together. In summary, I am very pleased with how this repair went. For 90 minutes of my time and $45, I was able to get the oven looking like new again.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

I removed the oven door using the instructions in the book that came with the oven useing 2 allen wrenches as described. I called up the parts list for the oven door on my computer and made a copy.This was very helpful in removeing the door and getting to the broken glass and installing the new glass The one thing that that i regret was not ordering the insulation frame that went around the new glass. It was difficult getting it back in place.I would order this part if I have to do this again. I ordered the new glass on a Saturday and the new glass was delivered on Tuesday.Thank you for the great service. Bill- Texas

first you have to remove door, so open door all the way, pull back the lever on each hinge, then close door all the way, it will be able to be pulled straight out then, but be careful, its a heavy sucker. I layed a blanket out on table and layed door on blanket, start by taking out screws around the edges of door, keep these in separate container.(don't lose any). now you need to separate the door in half, this can be a lil difficult, mine had grease build up on one end that I had to be scraped . pay special attention to how the brackets go and how the door comes apart, this info will be needed later, now that door is in half, you will need to start taking the 2 other layers of glass out, please pay attention how you take apart, it has to be replaced exactly right. take pics if needed. when you get to the broken glass, take out carefully, and place glass over opening, centered well. now you have to start replacing the other layers, the replaced broken glass is kept in place by pressure, once you get the other glass layers in do not lift up door, you will need to put in the screws under the door, one of which tightens the hinge base to the door, these are the screws that tighten the replaced glass, I found this out the hard way and had to undo the whole thing again to recenter the glass, once tight, just keep going backwards replacing the other half of door. once you do this you will either say, wow that stunk, or wow that was easier than I thought. if you don't have patience, then take the door and glass to a repair shop, because you are dealing with 3 pieces of glass costing 50.00 each. be smart.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

To prevent this from happening use 7 #8 flat stainless steel washers per the 4 oven door holes that connect to the the handle as shims before securing the attachment brackets.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

1. REMEMBERED TO SHUT OFF THE APPLICABLE 240V BREAKER. 2. Carefully removed the 2 screws holding the element to the oven structure 3. Carefully extracted the 2 wires from the holes at the rear. 4. Carefully removed the wires from the old element 5. Attached the wire sockets to the new element. 6. Carefully eased the wires back through the holes at the rear 7. Attached the 2 screws through the element holding clamp to the rear wall of the oven. Everything went better than I had expected.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.