GBS277PDB7 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Unscrewed the old thermostat took off the conectors then replaced with new one, and screwed it back on.

Took out the 2 screws and removed 2 wires connected to old element, put on new one. Did this all in about 5-10 minutes. Hubby didn't even have to help!

unscrewed the top glass protector off and took the old bulb out and put the new bulb in. very easy - less than 5 minutes.

Removed the old element by taking out two screws and replaced the new unit using the same screws. The delivery time on the new element was very quick-about two days. Thanks.

Ordered the part from partselect.com. I was amazed that it arrived the next day! It was the easiest repair I ever did. Took out 2 screws, unplugged the wires from the old element, plugged the wires into the new one, and replace the screws. Done.

Killed the power to oven, removed oven from its enclosure (its heavy), removed back off oven and the part that needed to be replaced was right there. After that simply reverse the procedure. Honestly hardest part of whole job was remembering what i did with the screwdriver after my last home repair job. The oven is heavy you may need help.

Contacted repair person on line and explained the problem. Person suggested testing the thermal fuse. Checked for continuity and there was none indicating the fuse was blown. Ordered new part and installed. Everything working again. Only problem was that the new part did not have the same connection as the old one on one end. Made substitution and it worked.

Removing the door was the first challenge but once the door was off it was a matter of disassembling the door to get access to the interior door. If you remove all pieces and line them up in the order that they are removed you have a good chance for success.

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

Once the door was secured with hinge locking pins which I made out of cut off 16 penny nails,I removed the door , layed it on a soft padded piece of vinyl and proceeded to remove the inside top cover which was secured with phillips screws on the top and sides. I was then greeted by 2 sheets of glass before I could get to the front glass which was the one that cracked.These sheets of glass were secures with slotted metal frames which also required removing several screws and braces. I was then able to remove the cracked glass and replace it with the new glass panel. Then I had to reverse the steps to assemble the door which was fairly easy since I made a diagram of the steps when I disassembled the door (this saved me alot of aggravation since my memory isn't what it used to be. The door was fitted into the frame of the oven and once the hinges were in place I removed the pins and closed the door. It was at that point that I got a kiss from my grateful wife. End of story.

Went to PartSelect on the internet and looked up my model. Next I selected the problem from a short list of questions, which indicated the broil element was the problem 99% of the time. With this bit of confidence I ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. The first step in the repair was to turn off the circuit breaker for the oven. After removing four screws that held the broil element in the oven, I pulled the electrical connectors apart on each end of the old element and attached the new unit to the electrical leads. Lastly I pushed all the wiring back inside the back wall of the oven and replaced the four mounting screws. I then performed ops check, which worked. End of story, job done in about 10 to 15 minutes. Easy Peasy.

The only difficult part of this repair was figuring out how to get the oven door off. Most instructions advise you to flip the hinge locking clips, then lift off the door. But this oven does not have hinge locking clips. What it has is holes in the hinges, just behind the hinge pins. To get the door off, you need to open the door and insert some 3/16' pins in those holes, then close the door and lift it off. I almost got this right the first time, but I used 1/8" pins, and they didn't work, too small. It took me a long time to figure out to use bigger pins. Once the door is off, it's just a few Philips screws to work your way down to the glass. There are 4 layers of glass in this door.

I read all the repairs. Turned off power to oven. Was ready to clamp clips so the don't fall behind oven and Crap!! One clip popped off so easy, it went behind insulation. Had to pull oven out. Put wire through, connected everything. Turned power on and oven and broiler work great.