GBD277PDS3 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

The repair was very simple. First, turned off the power to the electric oven by turning off the circuit breaker. Removed the side moldings (one screw on the bottom of each), and removed the bottom molding (two screws, one on each side). Removed two screws that held the oven in place (one on each side toward the top). With the help of another person, we pulled the oven out and set it on a two wheel dolly that was laying flat on the floor. I thought I was going to have to remove the power from the wired junction box, but found that the cord was long enough and I could turn the oven on the dolly to get access to the back cover. There are approximately 12 screws that hold on the back most cover. I removed the cover and the thermal shut off was located in the upper left/center part of the back of the oven. I removed the two wires and two screws holding the part to the oven and replaced. I then worked in reverse and put everything back together. The new part fixed the issue and the oven works fine.

parts arrived in 3 days along with easy to follow instructions. could not have been easier...made kitchen aid look like a class of clowns...

The only difficult part of this repair was figuring out how to get the oven door off. Most instructions advise you to flip the hinge locking clips, then lift off the door. But this oven does not have hinge locking clips. What it has is holes in the hinges, just behind the hinge pins. To get the door off, you need to open the door and insert some 3/16' pins in those holes, then close the door and lift it off. I almost got this right the first time, but I used 1/8" pins, and they didn't work, too small. It took me a long time to figure out to use bigger pins. Once the door is off, it's just a few Philips screws to work your way down to the glass. There are 4 layers of glass in this door.

I read all the repairs. Turned off power to oven. Was ready to clamp clips so the don't fall behind oven and Crap!! One clip popped off so easy, it went behind insulation. Had to pull oven out. Put wire through, connected everything. Turned power on and oven and broiler work great.

Removing the door was the first challenge but once the door was off it was a matter of disassembling the door to get access to the interior door. If you remove all pieces and line them up in the order that they are removed you have a good chance for success.

Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!

Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Unscrewed the old thermostat took off the conectors then replaced with new one, and screwed it back on.

Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.

Went to PartSelect on the internet and looked up my model. Next I selected the problem from a short list of questions, which indicated the broil element was the problem 99% of the time. With this bit of confidence I ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. The first step in the repair was to turn off the circuit breaker for the oven. After removing four screws that held the broil element in the oven, I pulled the electrical connectors apart on each end of the old element and attached the new unit to the electrical leads. Lastly I pushed all the wiring back inside the back wall of the oven and replaced the four mounting screws. I then performed ops check, which worked. End of story, job done in about 10 to 15 minutes. Easy Peasy.