RBD245PDQ7 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Remove oven from wall, remove top and back covers.Remove old fan assembly. The new assembly fit right in and works great.

Did not want to remove the pin from the new hinges, so found a proper rod and cut off two half inch pins to use in removing the door. followed the manual instructions. Took all of the screws out but did not notice that the four inside face screws were machine screws while all others were sheet metal screws. Had a little difficulty in getting the four machine screws to engage the bottom holes of the new hinges. Reinstalled the door and all works fine. It is too bad that we could not purchase just a new hinge spring instead of the entire unit. It is kind of a waste. I suspect that self cleaning ovens generate a very high heat which eventually weakens the hinge. The upper oven will likely fail in the future, but at least I know how to repair it.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

I read all the repairs. Turned off power to oven. Was ready to clamp clips so the don't fall behind oven and Crap!! One clip popped off so easy, it went behind insulation. Had to pull oven out. Put wire through, connected everything. Turned power on and oven and broiler work great.

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

followed the brief instuctions you provided easy as pie

Took the door off, removed the screws, took door cover off, cleaned the other two pieces of glass and the new one, and then reassembled. I set the screws aside so I put them back in the same holes. I never want to take the chance of a possible cross threaded screw not going back into the same hole. Note:Now is a good time to clean edges with oven cleaner before reassembly.

A generic video on Youtube was actually very helpful as it showed how to remove the door from the oven for easier glass replacement. The only tricky part is getting the panes of glass in the correct order during reassembly,as there are actually 4 pieces in the door. Only the piece that faces the oven's interior was cracked on mine. The two inner pieces between the two outermost pieces are the ones not to mix up. This little repair also gave me the opportunity to thoroughly clean all 4 pieces of glass that had become rather dirty over 12 years. Now the oven door looks like new!

I followed the instructions for installation on your site. I encountered two problems. I was unable to unscrew several screws. I had to used wd40 and slight encouragement from a soft hammer. Also, I was glad for the advice in one instruction about paying attention to the type of screw (flat or more flat). Otherwise, when I was ready to put everything back together, I would have had some problems. The flatter screws definitely had to be used in certain areas.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.