GBS307PRS01 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

It was a matter of swapping out the old door with new door. In all, it was a snap . Around 10 screws to take it apart and a few brackets to hold it all together.

My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Turned off the breaker. Removed the door and side trims. Slid out the oven and removed the metal casements. Removed the front control board by unplugging each wire and carefully replaced them back into the exact same places on the new board. Be sure each plug is firmly seated. Then put everything back together and slid the oven back into the wall.

Removed and replaced boiler element

This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me to pull the connection apart.

All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.

Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

With just the removal of a few screws I was able to replace the glass with the side benefit of cleaning the outter glass that had gotten dirty over the years with use. This is a simple project that all can complete.

Removed the door from the oven. Undid all the parts above the inner glass door. Installed the inner glass and reassembled the door. Reinstalled oven door.

I found some of the feedback posted on this site very helpful. Taking photos as I went along was also very helpful in remembering how to put it back together. There are several over-lapping pieces to the door and you have to be careful to put things back together in the correct order. Lining up the screw holes on the hinges with the door is also a little tricky.

I was able to remove the old element and planned it with what little time off that I could. This would have been maybe 20-30 minute repair at the most. HOWEVER! I was extremely irritated screws were not included? When I called to ask if they were missing they said they didn’t come with the element. Cost me a very annoying trip to the hardware store. Not sure if I missed it on the site that they don’t provide screws - would have been nice to know that before I started. Still scratching my head as to why screws wouldn’t be included? My old ones were as beat up as the element I replaced. I was so irritated I was looking for a spot to leave feedback. Product is fine. Shipping was fine. Sending these products out as they do? Zero stars on that.

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

After reading all the other entries, I decided that I could do this! My first hurdle was getting the oven door off the hinges. Mine were not like any of the others described. My son-in-law looked at them and couldn't figure them out. So, I found the original installation instructions and, lo and behold, they said to flip the lever (one finger operation) in each of the rectangular holes holding the door onto the oven and then lift up until the door comes off. I did it, and it did! Boy, is it heavy! From there I just followed everyone else's instruction about undoing the screws, washing the glass panels, lining up the screw holes to get it back together, etc. One thing that took me longer was that the steel panel needs to go back the way it came out, not flipped! When I washed the glass panel it held, I put it down wrong and then "installed" it backwards. Luckily, I have a double oven and looked at the other one to see what was holding up the re-assembly! I'm glad that one of the others mentioned that the glass on the "bottom", the one that broke, isn't held in my screws or steel plates -- nothing, so I wasn't surprised when I got to it and it was "floating" on the insulation. My white insulation was like a fine fiberglass and was easy to stuff back in around the rim of the new glass. Took me a little over one hour. So, no more wet rags on hot glass (you'd think after living 72 years that I would remember this!) The glass fit perfectly and my husband would have been proud of me -- that I tackled a job that he usually handled, and that I saved over $200 for a couple of hours of labor and travel time.