RBD245PDB8 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Because of the complexity of this door I video-taped my disassembly of the door to make sure I was able to put it all back together again (self-cleaning oven). Original order from PartSelect.com of 2 replacement hinges and a gasket worked only 3 months (the hinges) and the door again wouldn't close. I tried a couple dozen times to remove and put the door back on to no avail. It was my opinion that the original hinges were defective and I called PartSelect.com again. By this time I had removed the hinges (the first set purchased) and noticed the metal was "soft" and had sharp edges in a couple of areas where the hinge hook into the oven. When the replacement hinges arrived (the 1st two purchased came with a 1-year warranty) I compared the 2 new ones with the 2 first purchased and they were slightly different. I once again installed the new hinges, tightened all the screws, and the oven door immediately fell into place and is working perfectly. I have no idea why the first two new hinges worked for only 3 months and then the door once again wouldn't close but the two new replacements from PartSelect.com are working perfectly now. I am disappointed I was charged shipping for the 2nd set of hinges while they were covered under warranty. I do feel that because the 1st set were defective and under warranty I should not have been charged shipping of the 2nd set of hinges.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I followed the instructions given and it was very easy

replace thermal safety switch on back of oven

1. REMEMBERED TO SHUT OFF THE APPLICABLE 240V BREAKER. 2. Carefully removed the 2 screws holding the element to the oven structure 3. Carefully extracted the 2 wires from the holes at the rear. 4. Carefully removed the wires from the old element 5. Attached the wire sockets to the new element. 6. Carefully eased the wires back through the holes at the rear 7. Attached the 2 screws through the element holding clamp to the rear wall of the oven. Everything went better than I had expected.

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.

PartSelect service was quick and good and the price was about 35% of having the appliance store replace the hinges. We have two wall ovens - one a Whirlpool and the other a Kitchen-Aid - and strangely enough both use the same hinges. The oven door hinges are the weakest part of the ovens and we have had to have them replaced before. After paying over a $175 each for the repairs I was shocked to see how quickly they failed. Within 8 months one had to be propped closed with a broom handle and the other with a stool just to keep the doors closed so my wife could use the ovens .. and keep the oven light from staying on all the time.
My wife was ready to call the service people again when I said let me see if I can replace the hinges. I looked at the YouTube videos on oven door hinge replacement and it looked easy enough. I found PartSelect had the replacement hinges so I decided to start with one oven to see if I could do the replacement. It took almost three hours to get the oven door off and the hinges changed. Why? Every demo video on YouTube showed opening the door all the way and flipping over a lock that stopped the door closing at that almost closed point. This allows you lift up on the oven door releasing the hinge arm from the catch so you could slide the oven door away from the body of the oven. Guess what! These hinges didn’t have that little flip over lock!
I finally managed to get the door off using a screw driver to help me disengage one of the hinges from the oven itself. The rest of the hinge replacement went exactly like the demo videos described. Now I had to get the door back on the oven.
I held the door as shown on the videos and it slipped right in, but when I tried to close the door the whole thing was too high and bound. Messing with it I finally heard something drop out and onto the floor. I picked up this little apx. 1/8th inch diameters by ¼ inch long pin with a flared crimp on one end. I looked carefully at both hinges with a flashlight and saw that there was a pin like that on one side and not on the other. I slipped the second pin out of the remaining side and suddenly the door closed perfectly. It was then that I realized that the pins acted like the flip over lock! The problem was the new hinges had the pin and the old one did not, and you should not remove the pin from the new ones before you put the door back as it holds the hinge in a tension needed need to fit the door back on (and that tension is strong).
So there is a trick. You will need something to function as those pins, like a 16p finish nail, when you remove the oven door.
I immediately ordered hinges from PartSelect for the second oven .. saving the pins from the first hinge replacement. The second set of hinges arrived two days later and I opened the second oven door and put in the two saved pins – the door lifted off perfectly and 15 minutes later it was back on with new hinges. By the way, I saved the now four little pins in a zip-lock bag and put them with our file of appliance manuals. If I have to replace the hinges again I will have the pins I will need for removing the door.
One other thing I learned was why I believe the original hinges worked for several years while the ones installed by the service guy failed in months! On each of the ovens the service guy had replaced only one of the hinges. You could see the grime on the 4 or 5 year old ones that wasn’t there on the months old ones. I wish I could show you the pictures I took of both hinges (which this site won’t let me add), but the two hinges placed side by side had slightly different length and shaped locking arms (that part that slides into the body of the oven). On that first door I struggled with I couldn’t understand why one side just slid out while the other I had to force out. Looking back it was the old hinge that slid out and I don’t believe it was ever engaged as the locking arm was slightly shorter and a different sha

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

The repair went well & the part came in on time for thanksgiving thank you

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

Remove the door from the oven by rotating the two hinge locks. Place on soft working surface with inside door facing up. Remove screws from side , bottom and top of door. Place screws in groups as they were removed, the heads are different. Do not mix screws. Rotate door so outer Glass front is now on top. Slowly remove inner panel by sliding the outer glass panel towards bottom of door. Carefully remove inner portion of door with the two inner glass panels. Remove inner broken glass from innermost panel. replace with new glass and reverse operations to reassemble door. Make sure the white filler maaterial is back from edge of inner door glass or you will be able to see it from the front after reassembly.When all assembled, slide door back onto hinges relock hinges and you are ready to go.

Not difficult, but there are several layers of glass, metal, and insulation inside this door. Keep track of where the screws go and have room to lay out all the layers. You'll reach the cracked inner glass last.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.