RBD245PDB14 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

followed the brief instuctions you provided easy as pie

Turned off the power/ unscrewed the oven from the cabinet and slid it out took the back off the oven and the part was right there. What I would like to know is why this happens so frequently? This is the 2nd time and it always happens after the self cleaning is done.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

First of all I would like to say how prompt the delivery of my oven glass was. I ordered it Thurs & it came on Sat ~ 2 days thats amazing! Ordering my glass was easy & the representitive that helped me was very nice & the price was great! My husband repaired it in about 20 minutes - very easy to istall the glass & very cost effective repairing it ourselves rather than having a repair man come out! Thanks Part Select I will recommend you to all out fam & friends most definetly!

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

Actually I ordered the rong part--I ordered a control panel when I should have ordered a control board but Partselect did a great job of sending what was ordered also a nice job of letting me return it for credit. they did a great job of what they do and I would recommend them to all.

Not difficult, but there are several layers of glass, metal, and insulation inside this door. Keep track of where the screws go and have room to lay out all the layers. You'll reach the cracked inner glass last.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

replace thermal safety switch on back of oven

Remove the door from the oven by rotating the two hinge locks. Place on soft working surface with inside door facing up. Remove screws from side , bottom and top of door. Place screws in groups as they were removed, the heads are different. Do not mix screws. Rotate door so outer Glass front is now on top. Slowly remove inner panel by sliding the outer glass panel towards bottom of door. Carefully remove inner portion of door with the two inner glass panels. Remove inner broken glass from innermost panel. replace with new glass and reverse operations to reassemble door. Make sure the white filler maaterial is back from edge of inner door glass or you will be able to see it from the front after reassembly.When all assembled, slide door back onto hinges relock hinges and you are ready to go.